I think your tyre pressures are little high but that besides the point.
Adjusting the steering box has some traps, the axial play is not something you want to touch unless you know what your doing.
Take the tank out as Damo said and leave the car on the ground and get someone to turn the steering wheel where the play is.
A common problem is the steering box not being centred when your going straight, to check this remove the two inner tire rods and turn the steering left to right and count the turns, 1/2 way is straight ahead.
Look where your steering wheel is now, it should be in the straight ahead position.
If its not remove the steering wheel and centre it and then get your wheel alignment guy to adjust the tie rods so that the road wheels point straight ahead in that steering wheel position.
Now that you steering is pointing straight you can check your adjustment, I find the best way is to grab pitman arm and see if you can push it up & down, you should aim for a very slight movement at this point.
I think I've got the steering sorted to the point where it is solid enough on the road. Took the tank out and had a gander and there isn't play through any joints or the pitman arm so I re-read the procedure and re-adjusted the box.
So with that said I took it for a run up to Woodford today via the Mt Mee Rd and came back down the motorway; good run never got lower than 3rd gear on the hills, only real problem was the frigging gusts of wind we've got today I'd come into an opening and bam, the highway was worse!!! 🤪
Just bought a new extractor and muffler off 'Lauboy' on the forum here.
Installed it on the car today and fired it up and the motor loved having less restriction! Getting rid of the twin tip was a great idea; best thing is the new muffler is 10x quieter!!
Pics and video to follow; pretty happy I've only lost about 1/2 of ground clearance at the back but the bottom of the flange is about even with the Pobjoy sump.
In reality I would of loved a new vintage speed setup (thanks for you help Matt) but on a 1300 its hard to justify anything more than a 1 3/8 header!
Bob did a tricky thing on my oval. He cut the twin tubes off and welded on 4 straight pipes like an Abarth exhaust. Have to say though, it's pretty loud.
I thought of cutting the tips off and lengthening them to be just past the bumper, at the same time opening up the I.D of the pipes to 44mm instead of 30mm but packing more muffler packing into the tips like HUGE oversized stock tips.
Looking forward to this weekend cruising with other dubs.
I've adjusted the valves
Adjusted the exhaust and now the pipe from the collector to muffler sits parallel to the body, some grinding of the bracket and it's all good.
Next on the list is new oil and heat riser block offs'
I've got some Penrite Classic Light oil coming from Rarespares; it's a 20W60 oil but it's got a whole lot more Zn & P than Castrol Edge or Penrite HPR and the same $$ as the castrol
I've also got a breather box too; it's an EMPI one but I figure an Al box is an Al box; so I may or may not hook that up this week but it's not urgent as a 1300 doesn't really suffer from excessive case pressure!
Painted up the new breather before I fit it; IMHO I don't think an EMPI part has looked better!
The blue I tried to match to the blue of my Bosch 019 "Screamer" I think its pretty close but without the patina.
I kept the rubber o-rings on the inside of the box but added some copper washers on the outside so If any oil does get up there it shouldn't leak; with the valve covers I might add copper washers on both sides; what do others think?
Breather looks great - now just to age it a little...
I sent you a PM - was wondering if you got a chance if there were any tips / mod ideas you could give me for a stock 1300...Any help would be greatly appreciated. Love this car!
1967 VW Beetle Deluxe
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
benny_acko wrote:Breather looks great - now just to age it a little...
I sent you a PM - was wondering if you got a chance if there were any tips / mod ideas you could give me for a stock 1300...Any help would be greatly appreciated. Love this car!
I installed the new breather box today; not going to vent the valve covers with the bungs supplied; I just don't trust them not to leak on the valve covers.
The box is just hooked up to the stock breather tower outlet and the other 2 inlets are just joined with a loop of 1/2" pipe to prevent anything getting out if it were to get oily.
Inside the box I replaced the foam with something called Eager Beaver Cleaning pad; they are made by Oates and are $3.00 at Bunnings they come in any coarseness and colour and allow ALOT more air through than the stock foam that comes with the breather.
Only problem is I've got a bit of a leak somewhere either on the motor & definately the gearbox. Believe it or not the 17mm hex plugs that are in the transaxle are mangled because someone hasn't used a proper sized hex, the box is slowly weeping out and around these plugs and I can't get them out to replace! In regards to the motors leak it doesn't appear to be under the tinware it looks like under the fanshroud; I've degreased and am in progress with this leak as it could be the breather pipe that was just routed to the fan inlet at the back of the shroud, I took the car for a run and am letting it cool so I'll see where its coming from. 👎
FML - just jacked the car up after a GOOD clean and once the car was at operating temp (i.e. Oil started going to the cooler) the leak started.
Looks like I'll need to check out the oil cooler seals!!!! 😬😬😬 Not hard just a pain in the proverbial!!
Just so you know what I saw oil was ooozing out from in-between cylinders 3&4; looking at the trans those leaks aren't so bad but will need addressing.
Looking at the paperwork its the same seals and cooler that i had, these were changed in 2009. The cooler is a good 2nd hand one from VVDS. I havnt checked the seals so i don't know if they are new or not.
This cooler was installed by Stan on the longblock