Very high Oil Temperatures

Lateral · 2013-01-26T07:13:26+00:00

Hi Guys I decided to start a new thread as this issue arose from another thread that I started regarding oil pressures. (http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=100571&page=1#pid940777). I have done a test drive of the car ('67 beetle with a 1916cc Fuel Injected motor and mild cam and counterweighted cranks in a dual relief case that has done only about 19k kms) I have just purchased the car and have a list of "issues" that I am slowly working my way through in order to make the car a great and reliable daily driver. The car was originally built by Stenguns and here is the thread (http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=64212&page=1). The car has an external oil cooler (280mm x 180mm x 40mm 24 row??? without a fan) connected to the oil pump and is located above the transmission. I have attached a PDF of the data from the test run. I have noticed the following: 1. The motor sits a little bit low in the engine bay that may be attriibuted to the engine mounts failing. 2. The tinware does not sit nicely. 3. The engine seal has not been installed correctly and does not seal properly. 4. I think that the fan shroud in not genuine and probably does not have the correct internals. 5. I think the internal cooler is still in place. 6. I am not sure if all of the tinware/direction bits and pieces are installed. At this stage I have not taken the engine out but see the need for that to happen sooner rather than later. I would like to confirm the following. Is this a true statement? If the engine is in good condition and all of the tinware is correct and installed correctly and the engine seal is correct and installed correctly and I only had the internal oil cooler and no external cooler and had the standard pulleys then the oil temperature would be ok??? If I were to add an external oil cooler with a thermostatically controller fan that that would be even better? If the above is true then where is the best place (ideally in Australia) to get a complete set of genuine tinware and any other bits and pices I need? I understand that CIP1 have a complete genuine set of tinware http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=VWC-113-198-100&sort=7&Search1=Search Thanks again guys for your help with this...I have a feeling we are going to solve this issue quickly. Regards Greg

Craig Torrens 6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion

8,040 posts · joined Jan 2003 · 31 Jan 2013, 9:10 pm

#941741

😉...I am when I know it works 🙂

mactaylor Custom Title Time!

1,005 posts · joined Aug 2007 · 31 Jan 2013, 9:15 pm

#941743

just stirring!

EVERLAST CONCRETE TANKS
1800 552 123

Lateral Wolfsburg Wizard

480 posts · joined Sep 2011 · 4 Feb 2013, 5:02 pm

#942216

Hi Guys

Ok, here is the latest update.

I took the car to Advan Performance at Auburn (http://www.advanperformance.com.au/) and spent a couple of hours with Peter (the boss) simply going over the existing setup and checking to see which sensor was what, where it was located and was it working etc. We didn't need to go onto the Dyno.

We confirmed that the car has a TPS (located), Coolant Temp Sensor (reading from the Oil)(located), Air Temp Sensor (located) and MAPS (located). There is what appears to be a sensor located in the tinware about Cylinder # 1 that does not seem to be connected to the ECU so I will need to investigate this when I remove the engine.

Peter was great and found a number of "issues" with the configuration of the ECU....don't ask me what he found as my head is still spinning around 😂

He also said that the system has everything that is needed to correctly configure the ECU so that it will become a great and reliable driver.

He suggested that I have the Injectors "flowed" to make sure that they are all doing what they are supposed to be doing.

My plan is to pull the engine, check all of the tinware, disassemble the engine and have it checked and put back together, purchase any new tinware that I need and refit it so that it fits 100%, fit a fan and a thermostat switch in line to the existing external oil cooler and configure it so that it is not used when the motor is initially reinstalled but can be simply reinstated should it be required, figure out the best location for an oil filter and install, new clutch plate etc, remove and tidy up the existing exhaust (flange J pipes, check for leaks etc and ceramic coat) and address any other bits and pieces that may crop up.

Do you guys have any comments or suggestions?

Oh, Peter suggested that I ask you guys to see if anybody had a "Ignition Table" that we could use for the initial setup?

Regards
Greg

Lateral Wolfsburg Wizard

480 posts · joined Sep 2011 · 12 Feb 2013, 4:30 pm

#943362

Ok, here is the latest update.

I just pulled the engine out of the car and it came out surprisingly well...now I have a millions pieces across the garage 🙂 ....seriously, I labeled and "zip locked bagged" as much as possible.

I have stripped off all of the tinware which wasn't hard as every single tinware screw was either loose or was finger tight with a number of them missing altogether!

I think I will start another thread on what happens from here in.

Regards
Greg