That's the one for the pressure plate with no center ring
Make sure it slides up and down it's guide tube okay and returns right back on the guide tube.... That will be one more thing accounted for.
If you can get the flywheel off, should be able to get it machined locally. That would save you having to reset the end float if you changed for another.
Definitely can get it machined in coffs harbour
Hang in there, these things happen to us all...... I normally have something to tend to on one of my two beetles each weekend........ The only way to avoid the constant tinkering is do a big $$$, every nut and bolt full rebuild.
If keen you could bring the engine up here and we can get it sorted
Okay well i am hanging in there and i have made the desicion that im not giving up, i just need to get this sorted asapand i would love to be able to bring the engine up to get it sorred but the car and engjne are both stuck where they are untill there fixed.
The throw out bearing slides on the shaft all the way out but slidig back in it seems to not go all the way back unless you push it with your hand but im only talking the tinyest bit. And anyways i think we can rule out the fork and shaft and the throw out bearing because engaging and disenfaging the clutch is fine but i have afeling the flywheel has been machined too much and so once the pressureplate weaes dowb past a cirtain point it just slips and cabt get grip cause not enough pressure.
Got the engine back out now and am back getting into trying to fix this problem, so now that ive pulled the engine back out i can see the clutch disc is quite worn and alot of marks and patterns from last time i put it in this is obviously caused from the sliping and spining. There is some picture below can you all comment what you think about the parts look like and what could be the problem? the depth check on both flywheels shows it has been machined correctly and not machined down too far, although the flywheel that came with the engine looks very shinny and pollished kinda look to it, maybe scored flywheel or something? Let me know what you's think.
Your bellhousing pic looks to have quite a lot of oil around the place... waaaaay more than is healthy for a clutch. Even looks to be eating into your trans mounts.
Hard to be sure from the pics of the flywheel on the engine and the clutch plate. The flywheel off the engine... while it looks pretty scored, going by all the rust it definitely hasn't had oil anywhere near it.
😂
Are you sure there's not oil leaking from the rear main seal and finding it's way to the clutch plate ??? Doesn't need much oil there to make it slip...
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Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
IMO it looks like your clutch cable might be adjusted wrong........have a look at how far down the thread the wing nut is, it should only have about 15mm-20mm of thread.
Also, if you look at the thrust bearing its right out near the end of the tube its sliding on.......it should be sitting back towards the gearbox, with approx 10-15mm of the slide tube exposed.
So basically your clutch is not disengaging fully (thrust bearing is still up against the pressure plate) and this is why it is slipping.
Your clutch plate, pressure plate and flywheel all look like they are in good condition, whereas the "replacement flywheel" would need to be machined before fitting..... but you don't need to fit it. !!!
Clean your flywheel, pressure plate and clutch plate with thinners/ brake clean etc and put it all back together.....then adjust your clutch !
I have left you a phone message, so feel free to give me a call.
BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
Okay thankyou heaps guys for you input and help regards to this.
Before i put it all back together and put the engine back in for a 4th / 5th time and adjust the cable for the 6th / 7th time, how can i be sure as to what is causing it, cause i have adjusted the wing nut many times and it was no better no worse.
Hey actually looking more closely I think Bizarre is onto something... is it just a bad pic, or has your throwout arm had an extra/different set of "arms" welded onto it ???
Also seems like LHS pivot on the bearing itself is bent out of square... which I woudln't have thought was possible, so it could just be the pic.
Some better pics might help - especially of the arm and bearing itself removed from the trans....
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Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
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'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners
Dylan is the bowden cable full of crap? one of my mates had one recently that the cable was jamming in the tube causing clutch slip as the cable wouldn't return.
Craig Torrens wrote:IMO it looks like your clutch cable might be adjusted wrong........have a look at how far down the thread the wing nut is, it should only have about 15mm-20mm of thread.
Also, if you look at the thrust bearing its right out near the end of the tube its sliding on.......it should be sitting back towards the gearbox, with approx 10-15mm of the slide tube exposed.
So basically your clutch is not disengaging fully (thrust bearing is still up against the pressure plate) and this is why it is slipping.
Your clutch plate, pressure plate and flywheel all look like they are in good condition, whereas the "replacement flywheel" would need to be machined before fitting..... but you don't need to fit it. !!!
Clean your flywheel, pressure plate and clutch plate with thinners/ brake clean etc and put it all back together.....then adjust your clutch !
I have left you a phone message, so feel free to give me a call.
very sad day but the engine is back in the car after i adjusted the cable again and cleaned up the clutch and flywheel and put it all back together and back in the car and still yet again it is no better. I can not fix this problem so the car is now up for sale. I am by no means leaving the VW scene but right now this is just too much for me when i need transport and i dont have the time to be trying to work out why it's doing this.
Some good things about the car Below, The only bad things about the car is that the clutch slips and there is 1 small rust job near the arieal that will need some attention, and also a rust crack in the rear engine comparment area around the drainage area of the decklid.
- Rego till December
- Rebuilt 1600cc Twin Port
- Full front suspension rebuild with all new parts
- H4 Headlights (Australian E Code)
- SAAS Sports Seats on factory bases and rails
- New brembo front rotors
- New wheel bearings
Just to name a few, for full list P.M Me as there has been ALOT of new parts recently put on the car.
i have spent thousands on it and i don't have the money to take it to a mechanic to try fix. I am qualified up to cert 3 mechanical anyways. im just sick of all the time and hard work and still not getting anywhere.
Dude - don't give up on it. It's a just slipping clutch FFS, and while it may be a pain in the arse and frustrating IT CAN be fixed.
Hell, you mess around inside speedo's which are waaaay more frikken complicated and fiddly. No idea how many clutch jobs I've done, but never been able to pull a speedo apart and make it work again.
😵💫
Or the tough love version - give up now and all the people on here who've tried to encourage, advise and help will be left just sittin back and shakin their heads at the Cert 3 mechanic who was beaten by a POS Volkswagen...
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI - http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners
It's all too hard at the moment for me and yes it really is quite sad but what more can i do, the car is at my mothers place where i cant even live at but the cars stuck here so i can only work on it when i com down for a few days at a time. im meant to be getting a job and starting a new life interstate but haven't had transport for 2 months now and before that it was on a dieing engine with oil pouring everywhere and no muffler on 4 into 1 extractors and people calling the cops on me wherever i went and coped alot of abuse aswell.
Id love to keep it, i would love to be able to keep it and fix it slowly but i need transport and to buy another car i need to sell this to get some money back. it's very depressing but lifes a mess right now and it's only gonna get worse for me unless i get a job and carear and start a new life in a positive direction and get right away from all the bad people and bad stuff that ive been thru. wanting to live a good peace full life now i dont wanna get caught up in bad stuff and the wrong croud as i have been. Things are just a real mess and to fix things i need transport so i can be relaible to get to and from work every day to break the chain of all these problems i have expirienced and the people around me have expirienced.
Bizzarre & Sides you may be right,it looks like the arms have been welded on to strengthen them or it broke an arm off and they have been welded on in the wrong position,we might have to replace the fork to get it sitting where it should be and I am still sus about a cracked diaphragm.
Sides wrote:Hey actually looking more closely I think Bizarre is onto something... is it just a bad pic, or has your throwout arm had an extra/different set of "arms" welded onto it ???
Also seems like LHS pivot on the bearing itself is bent out of square... which I woudln't have thought was possible, so it could just be the pic.
Some better pics might help - especially of the arm and bearing itself removed from the trans....
What stumps me is that the bug was fine on it's original engine, then i replaced that engine with the $150 block and had no dramas, now ive changed the engine to this one and it's having all the dramas, what i dont get is if it was the fork or arm then why wasn't it like it on the 2nd engine or the 1'st? nothings broken so if it was wrong then why is it only muckin up now with the 3rd engine when all 3 engines have had the same pressure plate.
I did a depth check and it's at 21 and a half and the little depth is at 1 and a half. This is the same messurement as the replacement flywheel i have here.
The only thing thats left is the clutch disc and it's clean, not oily, meaty and is a sachs disc.
As these guys have said mate, (assuming the engine is stiill in the car) first thing to do now is to back that wing nut right off, you could almost go to the point where you cant actually select a gear with the engine running because the clutch is still engaged. Then work back from there until the point you can select a gear. Then see if you still are having slipp issues.
Bottom line is, dont give up on her yet, it can only be an issue that is contained to throw-out bearing / fork /operating lever / cable / cable housing. Neither of which are a major problem to overcome once you know which it is.
come a long way to chuck the towel in now mate.
hellbugged wrote:X2
Craig Torrens wrote:IMO it looks like your clutch cable might be adjusted wrong........have a look at how far down the thread the wing nut is, it should only have about 15mm-20mm of thread.
Also, if you look at the thrust bearing its right out near the end of the tube its sliding on.......it should be sitting back towards the gearbox, with approx 10-15mm of the slide tube exposed.
So basically your clutch is not disengaging fully (thrust bearing is still up against the pressure plate) and this is why it is slipping.
Your clutch plate, pressure plate and flywheel all look like they are in good condition, whereas the "replacement flywheel" would need to be machined before fitting..... but you don't need to fit it. !!!
Clean your flywheel, pressure plate and clutch plate with thinners/ brake clean etc and put it all back together.....then adjust your clutch !
I have left you a phone message, so feel free to give me a call.
i have backed the wingnut off all the way and the throw out bearing and arms go all the way back and i have only got the tinyiest amount of clutch just enough to slip gears. i have adjusted the cable that many times it's deffinatly not it, and ill try get a picture of the front of the pressure palte, but whats the chances that 2 pressure plates that were working are now both not working, i dont think the chances of that would be very high.
I'd be willing to bet a new clutch cable and you will perfectly fine again.
Its either breaking or stretching and doing up the wing nut that far is the only way to get any movement at the pedal, downside being its half engaging the clutch all the time being wound up that far.
I agree - maybe a stretching clutch cable, other thing to check is the hook on the end of the clutch pedal where the cable attaches - this can wear thin, break, bend etc etc depending on the life of the car.
Getting frustrated as f&$k is all part of the game with old cars - take it from someone who has sold several cars and later regretted it.
68AutoBugBeetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --
DylanTheDubber wrote:i have backed the wingnut off all the way and the throw out bearing and arms go all the way back and i have only got the tinyiest amount of clutch just enough to slip gears. i have adjusted the cable that many times it's deffinatly not it, and ill try get a picture of the front of the pressure palte, but whats the chances that 2 pressure plates that were working are now both not working, i dont think the chances of that would be very high.
From Dylan
Hi
clutch cables break all the time..
they stretch first [usually] and can snap the strands one by one until it breaks..
and that was with good german cables...
with aftermarket or Brasillian or mexican etc...
they probably don't last as long...
Years ago, I found a campany in the USA that made and sold cables guaranteed for life...
VW clutch and accelerator cables included..
but they didn't want to know about selling outside the USA...
weren't interested at all... lol
cheers
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
