The plates were here in a week, not super cheap to ship but for what they are worth it! Not a light item...
Haha, sorry craig. On the road an it was runnin a tad hot an started to play up, installed the boot jack from craig an dropped 20degrees. Then didnt skip a beat the whole way. Could be other issues involved but the temp is somethin ill look into now make sure it's all how it should be. 20degrees is a significant drop! Thanks again mate for the jack.
Could I ask how these work (sorry for the noob like question, just want to get my head around them)
I'm two splines on the outter lowered in the rear of my bug and the height looks the same.
Do you install these at the regular height spline and then the drop in the spring plate adds the drop? Are there any benefits to drop plates over extended plates that sre rotated on the splines?
Allboners, you can run them in stock position so u get the full travel ride like stock height but with ur car lowered.
It also eliminates some toe in with them been stock length with the 4" drop.
When u notch an lower standard plates that arnt lengthened or have elongated holes, if u watch the way they sit they arc upward pushing ur wheel towards the front of the guard more causing some toe in an camber which will chew out ur tyres quicker. With these at "stock" length they eliminate the toe in so it's like stock only with the camber an lowness..
Hope that makes sense
D-train wrote:Allboners, you can run them in stock position so u get the full travel ride like stock height but with ur car lowered.
It also eliminates some toe in with them been stock length with the 4" drop.
When u notch an lower standard plates that arnt lengthened or have elongated holes, if u watch the way they sit they arc upward pushing ur wheel towards the front of the guard more causing some toe in an camber which will chew out ur tyres quicker. With these at "stock" length they eliminate the toe in so it's like stock only with the camber an lowness..
Hope that makes sense
Yeh that makes peferfect sense. Basically all of the cool factor and no loss of "comfort".
Would 4" be equivalant to 2 splines on the outter? OR would that be closer to 3".
I lowered without extending or elongating and It's something I have been meaning to address... Thinking this may be the way.
joesbuell, they were 285 landed in oz. all fresh steel no core exchange or anything. outright.
allbones, depending on how low u go too will depend on all the toe in an other suspension geometry too, the drop on the spline adjustment would also depend on how ur rubbers are, the worn the rubbers the more play so could be 3-4" but if u have new rubbers it wont be as low obviously.
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Lots of things since last post.
One of my treasures turned up..
What is it?
Oh yeah..
An couldn't resist! Mounted!!
I've always wanted one an it was the right price so why not! An no point in puttin it "on display" somewhere for noone to see it.
had a shudder in the clutch an felt like the mounts had gone again, worst job but had to do it.
out with the engine, undid the box, swapped mounts an installed again, shimmed the bowden tube, easy but time consuming.
then...
battery has been goin flat, so thought id swap regulators over to see if that was the problem.
after installing everything i connected it all up bar the reg.
got sidetracked.
came back to the car an hooked up the battery,
tried to start it.
nothing.
popped the hood, checked fuses an stuff..
got back in an tried again.
still nothing but a burning smell.
shit.
ran to the back and seen the smoke.
unhooked battery.
too late, the damage has been done.
the wiring had earthed out on the generator an fried all the wiring.
time for a new loom..... again.
rookie mistake. so fuckn pissed.
Instead of fucking around with fixing loom, I've got one coming to replace it, not sure how far up its fried to so ill change the main section.
But also get into these
Holes punched
Captive nuts welded!
So when the engine/firewall comes out again ill install these so they are hidden behind it all.
4mm plate cut 6"x4" these won't be goin anywhere.. Seen a mates new 4x4 with 2"x2.5" 2mm plate sikaflexed on. Looked shit.
Running cost so far.
Plates: $10
Nut n bolts: $5
Total: $15
so my decklid has finally arrived. thanks braddick for lettin it go!
1st things 1st.
i have come to hate working on the engine with the decklid on, so out with these
an on with these
an done
im really unsure about it still after havin the other one on for so long. just looks wrong, might clean the car an let it get all dirty again so all panels match then.. its amazing how much airborne crap the ankor wax collects
Finally had some time to get onto it... once again out with the engine..
off with the bolt ons an firewall..
toast anyone?
out with old n in with new!!!
new loom went in sweet, more of the old interior fell out too, amazing how much is still up there. haha. plates will go in then firewall n engine.. then connect everything properly n fire it up again!
its amazing the difference it makes workin on the engine with the decklid been removable too
Little more tinkering..
Drilled a hole.
Yay.
Bored yet?
Installed a plate.
Double yay.
Even with the bolt at full reach through the plate it's still not that bad, an with the engine back in u won't even notice it..
Got the engine back in an all wired up. Not doin that trick again..
Test fit again with the decklid
Still needs a little tweak but good so far, thanks for it again Braddick.
I had the 6v battery on charge for 2days an noticed it never said full power, so it's been off for a day now an I tested it with a multimeter. 4.28v. Shit, battery is fucked an not that old either.. Should of tested it 1st but I assumed it would be good not been an old battery.
Live an learn.
So finally after days of troubleshooting an various msgs to people (thanks guys, nug, Leon, Jon, dad, bruce..) finally nailed it to the distributor earthing out so no spark to points from that.
Prior to that, pertronix wouldn't fire, changed to normal set up with points an condenser with no luck so rebuilt this one.
Back to vacuum advance n points...
It fired 1st go but stopped, thought it was fuel but was same problem again.
Bent some wires, an away it went! Finally cured!!
Was lucky I had a few to choose from too, if that
one didn't work was goin to be a long day swapping distributors..
It's amazing how a simple thing is such a headache, if it didn't start a match was goin to start some petrol in it!
Then I thought "I'll give it a clean" so the pics will tell a tale.
Before
U can see the difference here
After a wash with degreaser
The decklid has come up good too but more rusting to make it match properly.
finally got around to installing bits.
original mounting plates, so will copy position.
an drill
an lowers mounted..
finally found the right anchor point bolt size with mount
and got the seat in finally
anchor point works a treat
been wondering about the mmo intake for it for a while, then lately ive noticed after a little the judson gets a little noisier.
turned the mmo adjustment an not much difference. bit the bullet an then this happened.
whoops..
pulled it apart to check n clean it.
the intake shaft didnt seem to have good flow through the "whistle" end. if u have seen the end u will know what im talking about, looks like a steam train whistle..
pulled it apart an this is what i found
seems it thinks it was a cat.
big ball for a small tube.
so realistically, at idle when u set the flow of oil it would of been dripping at the correct amount, but then at speed with the higher vacuum an volume been sucked through, the hairball would of limited the volume been allowed through into the charger and leaned it out for lubricant.
this might be a small thing but could have a big result? or be one of a couple of smaller problems that are causing the heat.
Also had a phone call yesterday off the other half saying sorry..
Shit
Out comes the hammer an..... Presto!! Like new again.
Then off to get new shoes, bald tyres Arnt fun in the rain anymore..
Thought I'd upgrade the oval a little.
Had this shifter sittin from the old panel, so thought I'd put it in..
Size does matter! Haha.
Works a treat, just needs a little fine tune on it tho but I'm happy!
The steering was gettin a bit "how's ya father" so up it went an found this.
Not in good shape
Took it off an replaced with a new one.
Also fitted these since my tyres had no tread..
Still undecided. I do love steel rims. These will go on a mates bug.
it seemed misting rain after no rain for a long time make the roads slippery, and brakes lock causing skids..... into tow balls..
couldnt open the hood, so chop chop
damn, good thing "airbag" spare was there, saved a bit.
brought out my big hammer for the job.
acquired a new tool
good as new again
an presto!! like new again
finally the noise and the not staying in 1st and reverse got the better of me, time for an upgrade.
donor box
stripped of its dignity
new cone n stick
swapped the axles n tubes for 40hp ones to make it look the same.
sealed bearings to hopefully make them last longer
added some special sauce to help the fulcrums n gears last longer.
ready for install
machined flywheel while motor was out, also changed manifold, generator to a newly built one too..
out u go.
an out u go trash box
in you go
since wanting to keep it close to og, I wanted to use the split case bits, but came across a problem, split box bearing seal housings don't fit the 40hp tubes, an the 1500 ones don't fit either..so went an tried the 40hp ones with the split tranny back n brakes.. perfect.
u can see the difference in the 36hp splitbox, 40hp n 1500 ones here
like a glove now
and all back in.
list of things done
-1500 box
-40hp tubes, axles n bearing seal housing
-sealed bearings
-new gaskets throughout
-nose cone n stick
-rebuilt generator
-machined flywheel/ pressure plate
-clutch plate
-re torqued top head studs
-rocker gaskets
started 1st go which was great, went for a run and the difference is amazing. no tranny noise in the cab, smoother take offs, revs are better and seems to be a smoother ride. the only cab noise now is the throaty exhaust tone and the intake and whistle of the blower. even gear selection is better now too.
now the rear is sorted with the box, onto another "upgrade" for it ive had hidden away for a while..
average man size beam, 6"
came out of another bug because it was "a drag racing beam"
leaves were dry
cleaned up the surfaces.
red oxide
an nice n black for it all
greased up leaves an installed bushes
steel on steel rubbing isnt too good, an a little lube never hurt anyone...
arms on... just needs an install now!!
got this sorted too for it.. quick steer installed on a spare pitman arm.
