What are YOUR pedals though. Your pic shows the hook only, it looks like a welded hook which is the later pedals that are not cast assemblies like your UK internet pic which is what we would have up to '67. The late pedal assembliy (welded pressed metal construction) have the clutch hook further to the left in the pan, so adaption is required. I mod the pedals, maybe your car they butchered the clutch-tube with a late pedal assembly.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Ask and you shall receive; definately not an early one
And a pic inside the tunnel; I've got some better access now so have "joined" the pieces together. The back section is also loose so it needed to be pushed backwards. No wonder I couldn't get a bow in the bowden tube, the guide tube was always to far forward.
I can get the cable through and get the car going but it isn't going to achieve much. The pedal cluster well that is a cluster F*&K but it works but I might try and find a replacement one for my model.
The guide tube though I might get it tacked into place where it is and then once I've got a new cluster have a new tube welded into place where it is supposed to be.
I wonder if cold welding the front and back of the guide tube will get me out of trouble?
You need to weigh up what you want. To change to early pedals, you'll need to get the pedals (in good nick) and change the mounting point on the pan where the outboard mount is. I'm thinking a new clutch tube securely mounted but to meet the late clutch hook, will be the easiest, you already have access holes and the tube is loose now, so that needs fixing anyhow.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
That year bug was the first with those late pedals in Australia.
Daimo Pell's is the same model from memory, the last Aussie cars before the fully imported '68.
Whether VW Australia was smart enough to change the clutch tube position to suit? probably not.
Which may be why it has broken loose.
The little beastie lives again; got the clutch tube fixed up and put the engine back in this weekend. Running all good now leak free. Just need to check timing, valves & mixture, sync and top up oil.
She has been off the road for a little while now so It was good to take it around the block again.
Took it for a brief run again today; had to buy a new battery for her after the 7 year NRMA battery final wouldn't take charge.
Had to clear some stuff from the old rental and didn't have the tiguan..... so Bug to the rescue (again!) took out the passenger seat and loaded her up with some stuff. This would be about the 6th time she has helped me move house!
Been plagued by a sticky throttle since putting twin carbs on the car and poked around to see what the issue could be; turns out the accelerator pedal has been minced together and re-welded in one spot so I found some rod ends which I got a few years back in error with a left hand thread; joined them together with some threaded rod and attached to the accelerator. Lateral's thread on his resto and daimo's help put me in the right direction!
I would recommend this type of upgrade to your pedal; I now have absolute max travel and really smooth pedal; getting around the city is going to be sooooo much better than before as a plus heel and toe should be possible! 👍👍👍
changed the regular nuts to nyloc nuts that I had lying around and spaced the bottom attachment point out a bit so the angle on the rod end isn't as severe.
Interesting thread, this whole 1300 banter......
Just curious, you have a Tighe 148A 37/68 cam, where do you find the powerband is with your combo considering the cam is on the large side for a 1300
fish26 wrote:Interesting thread, this whole 1300 banter......
Just curious, you have a Tighe 148A 37/68 cam, where do you find the powerband is with your combo considering the cam is on the large side for a 1300
I don't have a tacho; so that is pretty hard to for me to tell.
Going off what Stan has told me; it should be at 5500rpm max and come in around the 3k mark.... that is based off a 1641cc - best guess I'm on par....
It actually is a pretty strong motor for it's cc's. Driving it down to coffs and back the other month really gave me an indication of how it runs, especially in all the back roads around coffs and lismore (due to detour). It is running out of breath though at about 130-140kph, which is the exhaust I think.
Soooo, despite all instincts to whack a good extractor on the thing like a big flange glass pack etc.... I've purchased a stock muffler...
BUT; I plan to ventilate this thing well enough that it will flow better than my GT thing that I have at the moment (which according to a volksworld test made less power than a stock muffler anyway on a 1600).
I got it today and went to it with the cutting wheel as it was clinking on the inside; turns out the pipes off 2 & 4 had snapped off and come loose in a couple of spots which meant they just pulled out. Unlike the muffler shown on the VWDCQINC website this one had 2 equal length pipes with a crimp on the end. The photos were taken just after a bit of a clean out so it looks a little moist inside.
Plan is to replace these pipes with new ones without the crimp and without the holes so that they basically direct it out their respective tailpipes directly; might look at directing the 2 & 4 inlets too, and then add on some straight pipes or TDE tail pipes. I'll then get it powder-coated in stock grey colour or ceramic coated (inside & out)
After cutting it open do you think it would have been easier to make a muffler from scratch a bit like an arbarth style system?
I like the idea of keeping it stock looking though, what tailpipes are you going to run?
SuperOwen wrote:After cutting it open do you think it would have been easier to make a muffler from scratch a bit like an arbarth style system?
I like the idea of keeping it stock looking though, what tailpipes are you going to run?
Probably... but I also can't weld so would need to leave the car with someone to do this etc... plus have a "stock" looking can is part of the appeal.
