Best bang for my buck? (Engine/Trans Queries)

Allbones · 2013-07-15T01:58:30+00:00

OK, so i'm giving alot of consideration to engine/trans build at the moment, and while i've done abit of research into what I'm after, I'm not 100% on everything. So my queries are as follows. My initial plan at the moment is to build/get built a 2332 with a budget of around $5000-$6000. My plan is to find a buildier/mechanic to talk with and order all the parts myself, then get them to build and install the unit. Goal would be 150-160rwhp, more if possible with the budget, of course, haha. Would be a daily w/about 100Km at most highway driving. But possibly more every now and again. Also budgeting about $4000-$5000 for box. My queries are as follows: - Would a Type 4 enginer give me more giddy-up for the same sort of $$$? - I've spoken with Rancho and they are confident they can provide a box for the power I'm going for that would be good for street and strip use. Alot of aussies dont have a great deal of good to say about the rancho boxes but alot of Yanks say they have no issues. I dont think I would be dragging weekly. Maybe a few runs per year (read 3-5 times a year). Are these boxes really that bad? If they were around the same price to get a good box built I wouldnt even consider them, but we are talking $1000's cheaper. - Given that I require reliability, I've heard 091 Bus boxes are great if built right. Would I be looking around the same price to build one of these up? Theres alot more I could ask but I think thats the ground work at the moment. I've waffled on enough as it is. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, Allbones.

DakDak67 Officially Full-On Dubber

208 posts · joined Sep 2011 · 17 Jul 2013, 12:14 am

#963477

The box came direct from Rancho in the US as that's where the car came from. I personally know the guy who built the car and I know the history going back about 12 years and over 100,000 kms.
My friend in the US has a 270 HP 2276 turbo donk that copes fine with one .
If DB can build a box to suit your needs that would be a great option too , it may work out cheaper. I'll shortly be dropping my box off to him for some TLC . Call around and go from there I guess 🙂

vwo60 Veteran Volks Folk

2,036 posts · joined Feb 2007 · 17 Jul 2013, 10:04 am

#963496

I am not argueing for the sake of it, i must be the only person to trial fit the fly wheel with the oring in place, it makes perfect sense to me to do it that way, other wise you would have no way of knowing that it is damaged in the final assembly, easier to recifiy than having to dismantle the whole engine when it is on the bench in pieces. my point is constructive as it alerts people to the trap of fitting the fly wheel without the oring in place during the mock up.

Allbones Officially Full-On Dubber

395 posts · joined Jul 2012 · 18 Jul 2013, 9:55 am

#963609

Out of curiosity, is anyone in australia running a 90x94 combo on the street?

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 · 18 Jul 2013, 12:47 pm

#963617

I have a client with an 88 x 94 that I built and it's great to drive, very mild cam and goes really well, in a trike too. The 90 crank is available but a damn tight squeeze. You end up with about 1/2 the camshaft diameter

In response to Shayne with the O-ring during trial assy, I only use them once as I don't like the idea of the O-ring getting reused/damaged. Maybe with light of this thread (and the news from the guy with the issues) I may change my technique.

Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE

1916baja Custom Title Time!

1,990 posts · joined Sep 2007 · 18 Jul 2013, 12:59 pm

#963618

Keep in mind also, your car is slammed! You suspension setup is not ideal for 150+ hp, you may need to rethink some of that too.

Allbones Officially Full-On Dubber

395 posts · joined Jul 2012 · 18 Jul 2013, 2:10 pm

#963620

1916baja wrote:Keep in mind also, your car is slammed! You suspension setup is not ideal for 150+ hp, you may need to rethink some of that too.

I do realise this.

Will probably half the height its lowered, add a kaffer bar, disks & use drop plates instead of rotating splines to get the drop I want.

Allbones Officially Full-On Dubber

395 posts · joined Jul 2012 · 18 Jul 2013, 2:11 pm

#963621

matberry wrote:The 90 crank is available but a damn tight squeeze. You end up with about 1/2 the camshaft diameter.

Ahh ok, Guessing that will impact reliability/strength somewhat, not really what I am going for, haha.

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 · 18 Jul 2013, 3:36 pm

#963629

The bigger you build it, for reliability, the more you de-tune it as the crank journals are smaller therfore flex more as the stroke and rpm increase. So it becomes a complex game of trade offs. I recommend lower rpms as the engine gets bigger as the forces involved is what makes the bigger combos less reliable.Pushing a beetle along takes very little power, even a 1776 can be an enjoyable experience, live long and go hard. The combo in my '59 is very strong in both performance and reliability as it's components have been chosen with these goals in mind, it runs cool, fast and isn't so highly stressed as I put the best parts where necessary and continually aimed for light and strong. It's 90.5 pistons are lighter than 94's, the rods are light, the gudgeon pins are light, the flywheel and clutch is light, even the clutch bolts and washers are light, also by using a mild stroke, the crank has larger VW journals which makes it stronger, all these things IMO reduce stresses. And let me tell you, it's plenty fast.

Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE

Aussie Officially Full-On Dubber

296 posts · joined Sep 2006 · 18 Jul 2013, 8:20 pm

#963660

vvwbeetle wrote:Allbones

I have a 2332, putting out 151hp on the dyno, not a revy engine, max power just over 6500rpm, awesome street driver with heaps of torque, happy to discuss any questions

ps. not my daily driver-but on the run to Valla last year avg close to 9ltrs/100km with a 4 speed box sitting at 3500 rpm bang on 100km/h.

Simon

What are the motor specs? Sounds nice 😎

Paulc1964au Custom Title Time!

1,627 posts · joined Mar 2010 · 19 Jul 2013, 6:46 pm

#963726

matberry wrote:The bigger you build it, for reliability, the more you de-tune it as the crank journals are smaller therfore flex more as the stroke and rpm increase. So it becomes a complex game of trade offs. I recommend lower rpms as the engine gets bigger as the forces involved is what makes the bigger combos less reliable.Pushing a beetle along takes very little power, even a 1776 can be an enjoyable experience, live long and go hard. The combo in my '59 is very strong in both performance and reliability as it's components have been chosen with these goals in mind, it runs cool, fast and isn't so highly stressed as I put the best parts where necessary and continually aimed for light and strong. It's 90.5 pistons are lighter than 94's, the rods are light, the gudgeon pins are light, the flywheel and clutch is light, even the clutch bolts and washers are light, also by using a mild stroke, the crank has larger VW journals which makes it stronger, all these things IMO reduce stresses. And let me tell you, it's plenty fast.

Matt,

I spoke to a lot of people and was recommended to build a1776 am really looking forward to the first drive in a few weeks

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