Craig Torrens wrote:A good option is to fit the largest bars first.....then "turn them down" on a lathe if the spring rate needs to be altered. Its easy to remove material, but you can't add to a torsion bar 👍😉
wait? what...? you can do that?
wouldn't that compromise them?
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Still putting my bug back together, boy I hate doing the doors the most.
I thought I would post a photo of the reinforcement in my drivers door.
My friend John who used to own this car had a new drivers door fitted when the girlfriends father backed into it.
He bought a new door from VW, it was the last one that VW had in stock. It had no external mirror hole but an intrusion bar fitted inside, this door is noticeably heavier than the passengers door.
Doors back together, a word of caution, I tried to reuse the inner scrapers and long felts, total waste of time, bought new ones today from Vintage and it all went together so easy and the windows wind up and down easily now
Craig Torrens wrote:A good option is to fit the largest bars first.....then "turn them down" on a lathe if the spring rate needs to be altered. Its easy to remove material, but you can't add to a torsion bar 👍😉
wait? what...? you can do that?
wouldn't that compromise them?
I think that is the point! Torsion bars are not case hardend.
Car is back on the road, I thought I would get a stock lid painted when the car was resprayed, I was lucky to find a 76 lid in the for sales on here, thanks Pazzan.
Stevie u need to get that air filter out of the engine bay, or at the very least enclosed (not just so it's legal) so that it only sucks cool air from outside the engine bay, that's exactly how I cracked my No.3 piston ringlands 8 years ago, summer is coming too.
I haven't given it too much but the intake temps seem to be not much over ambient driving to Harrys the other night and out to coffee & cars on Sunday.
I want to get Westy to make some sort of filter box that will suck air from the rear vents but not let water get sucked into the motor.
I would have gone the same way that you did on your car Jak but the reinforcing I put in the engine bay gets in the way, I will use the tail for any speed events, its an easy swap over.
Torsion bars are on hold until some saw away ones arrive soon.
like any standard bonnet scoop air box, mounted up to the vents with a soft foam seal will work well. small drain holes at the bottom and even drain hoses if you like. Water wont get sucked in.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
That's the sort of thing I was thinking, but maybe go to a panel filter.
I went over to see George at Classic today to pickup a rear parcel shelf, its a 31° + day today, the inlet temps were 50° after shutting the car down for a bit and it then back down to 40° after driving a bit.
I've been a bit nervous about how my 2nd hand 930 CVs would handle Warwick, so I bought a set of German race prepped ones from http://hunterrivmasta.com.au.
They are made by GKN, have chromemolly cages and under sized balls.
Bob at Hunter Rivmasta is real gentleman, so if you need any driveline bits give him a call. He was $88 cheaper per joint than another Australian supplier.
Bit of pleasant surprise, after working all day on a massive landscaping project that I've been working on for a while, I decided to bite the bullet and change the CVs tonight.
I was expecting to have to remove my rear trailing arms to get my axles out as I built reinforcing on my chassis forks and the CVs sit deep inside the aluminium 944 trialling arms, well the extra splines on the SAW axles allowed me get the axles out.
As a bonus a found a self tapper lodged in a rear tyre, it hadn't gone deep enough to cause a puncture but it could have worked its way further in over time, maybe at Warwick.
I had a great weekend away at Warwick. I was lucky to win my bracket in the VW body other engine category, particularly after not being able to find 3rd gear.
that's the wrong time sheet for the final Steve. And you didn't win! I lost! But missed gear beats red light in drags like paper beats rock..... well done mate it was great to finally have a run with you. Now I can't wait till Wakefield again....
Actually Yogie that is a terrible time sheet Steve put up! It was for a run he did against Barry Roberts in his Subi powered kombi. If you look at the numbers the dial in is what you expected to run. The idea of braket racing is to beat the otehr guy to the line without going faster than your dial in. As you can see from this time sheet both Barry and Steve red lighted as their reaction times are negative but Steve was not as bad as barry so took the win. But you can also see that Steve "broke out" as he actually went faster than his dial in 8.631 against a dail in of 8.9, soooo a double baddy, red light a a break out and yet still a win! You are good Carter!
I've watched the video a few times today and I have a brusie on the back of my head where I keep hitting myself! Looking at your numbers I think you would have broken out if you had found third gear! You were 0.367 off your dial in and must have dropped 20mph in the last 100ft so had I not red lighted and had you found third we would have had a cracker finish......
oh well there is always next year.
PS, I've re-routed my turbo cooling line and James and I are welding up a new return line to the radiator with a bleed up top and a feed at the bottom. Watch out Wakefield!
It weighed 1080 kg when it was engineered, I've fitted a few more things since then, I will get it reweighed.
Why doesn't it go quicker? It was going quicker every run as I was getting used to the car, I changed my dial in from 9.9, 9.7, 9.6, I was lucky not to lose when I broke out, the people I ran against red lighted. My final run was looking good but I stuffed up 3rd
Hope your head gets better Lou. Can't wait to hear if the the cooling modes help.
