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This weekend is it, we start

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tan36 Casual Dubber

31 posts · joined Dec 2006 ·

#989964
Today I'm off to buy some tools from a list I made off the forum of what I will need to start, ( already have a few bits so not to big of a list for now)
Tomorrow we plan to strip out the fuel tank, and wires (must remember to take lots if photos ), then remove doors, windows and both hoods.
Sunday starts body removal. Fingers crossed for good weather to work in.

So what I want to know is any hints or tips that I might need to know for any of these jobs, also any must do!!!!! Jobs in case I haven't found that info yet.

TIA Tan

Deadpan Seriously Crusin Dubber

109 posts · joined Apr 2014 ·

#989970
One tip I will start with-have plenty of different size resealable bags,disposable food,ice cream containers and permanent marker to put all bolts,screws and bits and pieces and mark them on dismantle
Shaun,Part-time secret snake relocator,full time reptile keeper and small collector of ugly projects bugs ...🤪

57 oval Oval type 4 Fuel Injected

184 posts · joined Feb 2008 ·

#989972
Tan
You will be surprised how fast it will come to pieces, once you get started you wont want to stop.
best advice as above bag and tag all parts and keep every bit of rubber, seal grommets everything it all helps when you go out to get the replacement ones, good luck champ
1957 Oval type IV
1956 Oval poss project
1954 Oval impossible project
Ass 70's Beetles
http://www.users.on.net/~rogerbyrne/index.htm

bajachris88 The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 6

6,661 posts · joined Apr 2005 ·

#989976
And definitely understand that in vehicular restos, it will always look worse before it gets better. It can be demotivating after disassembly to see a million separated parts and the heap of work left to put it all abck together restored, particularly when it starts as an assembled or near assembled project. Just got to remember its part of the process.

Another good tip is how to deal with the worst / most challenging bolts teh car has to over, which is the door hinge philips head drive bolts in my opinion. Plenty of penetrating fluid, plenty of recoats, a 1/2inch drive philips head tool and a breaker bar, but be sure to use the hammer to 'knock' the philips drive piece in to 'crack' the threads loose.

IF you got A pillars to replace, befoer cutting out the old rusty a pillar or removing the body off the pan, weld supporting steel bar to 'hold' the right shape and position of the dash. Cutting the a pillar out without supporting the dash will lead to the dash saggin ever so slightly under weight. You won't notice it by eye, but will when you reweld in an a pillar and try to close a door.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!

tan36 Casual Dubber

31 posts · joined Dec 2006 ·

#990035
Thanks everyone.

Bajachris88 I know of the bracing across the doors for heating channels, where else do you mean for the dash?

Today I got the bonnet hood off, fuel tank out and labeled and drew out pics about 3/4 of the wiring under there OMG it's a mess LOL.

xerxes Commited Dubber

62 posts · joined May 2011 ·

#990045
Good luck Tan
haven't got any advice yet but will keep an eye on your thread for tips and tricks when i take mine apart - sooo got itchy fingers to get on with it 🤪
1967 Rat Beetle
1974 Kombi
1967 Aussie Deluxe Project

vduboy Insano Dub Head

702 posts · joined Oct 2012 ·

#990304
bajachris88 wrote:And definitely understand that in vehicular restos, it will always look worse before it gets better. It can be demotivating after disassembly to see a million separated parts and the heap of work left to put it all abck together restored, particularly when it starts as an assembled or near assembled project. Just got to remember its part of the process.

Another good tip is how to deal with the worst / most challenging bolts teh car has to over, which is the door hinge philips head drive bolts in my opinion. Plenty of penetrating fluid, plenty of recoats, a 1/2inch drive philips head tool and a breaker bar, but be sure to use the hammer to 'knock' the philips drive piece in to 'crack' the threads loose.

IF you got A pillars to replace, befoer cutting out the old rusty a pillar or removing the body off the pan, weld supporting steel bar to 'hold' the right shape and position of the dash. Cutting the a pillar out without supporting the dash will lead to the dash saggin ever so slightly under weight. You won't notice it by eye, but will when you reweld in an a pillar and try to close a door.
x2 Very good advice there, It can definitely be depressing at times looking at a rusty bare pan where a complete car once sat but it will be worthwhile when you get to drive it again. Don't throw anything out however shitty it looks as you'd be surprised how often you need that thingymajigdoodad that is nla. And take more photos than you think are neccesary, it has helped me with mine massively. Good luck!
It will all be OK in the end, if it's not OK it's not the end!