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Acceleration problem

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lenny1870 Slammed & Awesome Dubber

84 posts · joined Mar 2012 ·

#991110
When taking off, the engine stutters and misses and I can't accelerate very well. I have trouble going up inclines, let alone hills and I don't know what the problem is.

I have cleaned out all the jets in the carburettor (30 pict-2) and there is enough fuel reaching it....the timing is set to 7.5 dg before tdc and the points gap is 0.4mm. I thought maybe the squirt may have been a problem, if there was not enough? But I am not sure?

I have a Bosch 0231 127 009 distributor also
Josh
Because there is no other car like a Dub 😂

barls Administrator Causer of Chaos and Mayhem

9,473 posts · joined Jun 2004 ·

#991113
whats your points like?
last time they were adjusted?
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
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lenny1870 Slammed & Awesome Dubber

84 posts · joined Mar 2012 ·

#991114
barls wrote:whats your points like?
last time they were adjusted?
The points were adjusted this morning and there was a small improvement although the acceleration problem persists :/
Because there is no other car like a Dub 😂

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,787 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#991121
has this only just started?
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Shuffs Commited Dubber

50 posts · joined Aug 2010 ·

#991122
More questions!
Is the miss,just like it's dropping a cylinder,or is the whole engine dying?
If it's not a fuel problem,and you have the points sorted,maybe it could be a plug lead,the plugs themselves,main lead from the coil,or the coil itself.If you have spares of these,I would try the easy changes first (leads and coil),but don't do the lot at once and try it,because if that fixes it,you'll never know what was at fault.

lenny1870 Slammed & Awesome Dubber

84 posts · joined Mar 2012 ·

#991128
I advanced the timing by 5dg and there was a significant improvement although I'm not convinced I have fixed the problem..I took it for a test drive up the main hills I drive and it went fine. My worry is wether or not the advance in the timing will effect anything?? Aka create more problems from now on??

And yeah this problem only started last week...
Because there is no other car like a Dub 😂

plimthing Learner Dubber

19 posts · joined Apr 2014 ·

#993560
I had this on my SB. I know you said you checked the squirt for quantity but is the nozzle still there and if so is it pointing down the centre and not aimin at the sides of the carb throat?? Mine had gone completley (|!?) and the car would just stumble on the slightest acceleration.

bajachris88 The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 6

6,661 posts · joined Apr 2005 ·

#993565
so you have a 009 dissy you say.

well... firstly you need to time the dissy differently to the stock vac style distributors. You need to adjust it so the maximum advance is around 32 to 34 degrees. What ever it rests back down on at idle (be 7.5 deg or otherwise) is what it will rest down on. With 009's you set the max advance limit to 'tune' the timing.

Weak spark can also cause issue. Ensure gap is not too large. Not sure on your level of experience, but remember never remove spark plugs on a hot motor or you will damage the head threads.

With accelerator pump, easiest way to check is to turn the throttle ever so small and you should see at least a drap going in. IF you are turning the throttle 30 deg or so before it spits out then it ain't right.

Lastly, i had a vac dissy go out similiar to the way you describe. Backfiring and carrying on. I'm not sure what the issue was but i just swapped out to a wannabe 009 dissy. Ensure all mech advance mechanisms in the guts of your dissy and move around and spring back freely, and its cheap insurance to swap the condenser.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
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landfall Officially Full-On Dubber

290 posts · joined Jun 2014 ·

#993568
Do you have a tachometer?

If so, at idle, remove one spark plug lead at a time and note the drop in RPM. If there is a significant difference in any one cylinder, then first up check the spark plug lead, ie: the faulty cylinder will not drop the RPM as much as the good ones.

You can check each lead with a multimeter set in the Ohms category 200k.

If the lead checls out OK, just to be on the sure side, check the distributor cap for any cracks or arcing.

If all this is OK, then you are left with a compression test on the cylinder that is not performing.

Ken

oldturtle22 Officially Full-On Dubber

267 posts · joined Nov 2011 ·

#993951
Check to see if the advance mechanism in the dizzy isn't seized or beginning to seize.