modulus wrote:helbus wrote:Stock engine however built to high tolerences. 0.0025mm is the tolerence
Crikey. That's 1/10 of 1/1000 of an inch. Is that possible?
In any case, it should run as smoothly as silk, especially with the flywheel/cluth assembly balanced.
hth
yep, sounds typical of a more modern engine.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Yay! Motor is in. Just gotta hook it up and start
Hooked motor up and started tonight. No time to get everything done, but it is going. I still have to hook up throttle and clutch cable and a number of other things. Will look at driving it on Thursday evening maybe.
vlad01 wrote:modulus wrote:helbus wrote:Stock engine however built to high tolerences. 0.0025mm is the tolerence
Crikey. That's 1/10 of 1/1000 of an inch. Is that possible?
hth
yep, sounds typical of a more modern engine.
Indeed, after looking at single-pass bore finishing process I see they can now achieve a production size tolerance of 0.001 mm and geometry tolerance of 0.0005 mm. These are figures which would have been barely credible 20 years ago. Ain't progress wunnerful?
Peter Hill
1975 Type 2 Double Cab
modulus.com.auhi Pete
how did your EJ22 rebuild go? are you happy with it ?
I think my EJ25 DOHC is on the way out and held to look at my options .
Who did yours?
Would you recommend?
thanks Paul
Sunnyjim wrote:hi Pete
how did your EJ22 rebuild go? are you happy with it ?
I think my EJ25 DOHC is on the way out and held to look at my options .
Who did yours?
Would you recommend?
thanks Paul
x2 Keen to know what they recommend for running in on a new style motor too. Hope all is well with it?
It will all be OK in the end, if it's not OK it's not the end!
Sorry about the delay. It has taken a long time to get everything finished. I had a couple of setbacks, and my advice is to make sure you watch a number of Youtube engine assembly clips to make sure you are on the right track. No big problem that I could not overcome. If you are planning on doing the assembly yourself, the only real specialist tools that you must get are
Valve spring compressor
engine stand
Torque wrench up to 100ft/lb
Ring compressor (quality USA made type)
Dont get any cheap gaskets, seal, bearings, surface sealant or thread lock
Doing it all yourself, with quality machining, parts and buying the tools, you could do it for $3000'ish depending on whether you get full engine balance, new sensors, injectors cleaned etc. etc. There is always so much more than just the machining of bores and buying a set of pistons.
It may have a faulty fan thermostat sensor, so I have a bug to iron out, otherwise it is running strong. Started about 1/2 a second after cranking it, so started fine once everything was correct.
All I can say is also watch the fuel in and return lines and you dont mess those two up
WOW. How good is a fully rebuilt engine. This feels great, sharp, strong, smooth torque. I want to get it on a dyno and get a real Hp/ Kw figure.
Then it is off to the drag 1/4 mile and see if we can beat the 17.8 sec 75 Mph 1/4 mile.
I wanna thrash this new engine like a bitch.
Is it possible to build the EJ22 more than 135hp? It feels real strong. Maybe the compression is up a touch when the decks got faced. The Dyno will tell all.
EJ22 in theory with the right work, should be able to get 200hp or more. So I would say 150hp+ should be pretty easy.
It could well be up on power. A lot of cases where nothing else has changed, just by having decent machine work done on the cylinders can seal the rings better against the walls. also having valves not leak helps 😀
Interestingly, lots and lots of engine makes from factory have out of round or other wise machined wrong cylinders, slightly out of whack tolerances, crocked decks etc.. When corrected makes a difference.
or most likely you just didn't notice the degradation in power over time due to cylinder/ring wear, and other factors.
In one of my cars, the best it could do was 12 sec to 100, chucked in a 2nd low k engine which was smooth as butter not death rattle like the old one, new times were 7sec to 100. Makes a difference not having the engine so worn out 👍 fuel consumption also dropped by 40-50%, yes the old one was that bad.
Otherwise everything else was unchanged.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Rightio
All done. I have learnt a few things along the way, and I believe we have a nice strong EJ22 now. Smooth torquey, quiet. Once we get to 500km, I will change the running in oil, and it's on. I haven't been pussy footing it though. Plenty of high gear low speed load up hills, constantlt changing revs and load etc. 250km so far, and all good. The temp is sitting on 85'ish all the time, so that is a good sign too.
Worst thing you can do is baby a fresh engine.
when my EJ25 was rebuilt my subi guy who has been building and racing Subarus forever said just make sure coolant and oil is right and drive the arse off it and do several hard pulls from low revs in 3rd gear to bed the rings in.
first thing I did was that and took it for a 100km blast up the Pacific highway
its now got 46,000kms on it now and runs like clockwork.
Just an update on the rebuild.
It is up to 3000km now. Did plenty of 100kph and 110kph drives over the last few days, uphill with a full load of camping gear, water, food etc. for a family of four, trailer with trail bike, fuel, gas and more camping gear.
Yep we did see about 110C temp on the guage when going continuously uphill fully loaded on a 40C temp day, but that is well within the 127C boil point of the cooling system.
Motor was singing sweet on the freeway at 110kph. The low profile tyres make it sit on 4000rpm. Still a couple of hours of that is nothing for a fresh and balanced Subaru engine.
