we work at padstow,westside mufflers.
the r100 belongs to a customer that is sponsored by pac.
we are just down the road from them.
this is the car we built for auto salon,check it out.
westi wrote:just finish of the arse end here's some pic's
i hope it works as good as it looks.
i am not real hppy with the shock mounts,so i have only tac welded them for now,has anyone got any pic's of something similar.
It's great to see someone else doing things differently.:thumb
Don't know if you've thought about this, (I notice you haven't welded the kafer setup yet) but how do you plan on getting the gearbox out, with that arrangement?
Are you going to pull the axles out every time the gearbox needs to come out?
i will try to find a standard setup to copy so i can make you a rear brace ,just give me a bit of time because i want to try and get my pan finished.
i just got my sway away axles and front and rear brakes.
i did the front brake coversion on saturday,type 3 hubs,falcon disc's,nissan four spot calipers
oh,
i nearly forgot ,yes i will be pulling out the axles every time i need to change the box,i don't realy want it to unbolt,it's just something else that could go wrong.
to koolkarmakombi,i had already ordered my gearbox and wasn't going to do anything to the rear of this one,but i got bored and i had some nice bits just laying around.so i thought why not.
I tried to post a photo last week but it was so SLOW it never came up.
I used the roll cage back-bars as my point of load on my top shock mount.
You can lean the top of the shock inboard and forward a little with the swingaxle wheel travel.
Once this is done you can down-size the bars going down to the forks, and have them removable and closer to the bell housing.
Just make sure they clear the engine/heads/ exhaust.
i am going to be changing the tie rod end to rose joint,so i will play with the steering geometry then.
i am trying to build the car with stuff i have lying around and i am a cheapskate,so dropped spindles are out.for now anyway
so in the rear will you be able to fit wide rims?
if so how wide?
cause it looks like you'll be able to go big and the look of a drag car eg tubbed with fat rubber under the rear
cheers
YOU HAVE JUST BEEN DAKED
don't worry it's a VW thing
without the body on it's a little hard to guess.but 295 maybe 305.
the four link is about 100mm in from where the spring plate was.
it should look pretty fat
hope you don,t mind me asking ,but why aren't you fixing it,you would be untouchable in all motor.online wouldn,t have a chance.
they have approx 220 hp in a 600kg car.fast as it is ,the motor doesn't have any more to give.
do they weigh the cars often,
the only reason i ask is because they have told me personaly that there car weigh's only 600kg's without driver,
i thought that was a bit light but didn't think any more of it.
and the calculation's work out pretty close. for the mile ,weight and gear ratio's.etc .etc
i also hear there might be some rule changes for all motor coming soon.
If you are trying to set a record, then they will weigh you.
Some tracks will bounce you if you are under,
which is pretty bogus since it is only bracket racing and not "heads up" yet.
I think they would be close to the minimum weight for their car(honda is 1650=750kg...650+ driver?)
But then again, it is NOT their car that holds the national record is it? LOL!
there fibreglass ,i don't know what they are worth .this one has gone on to a list of favour,s .
i got him to make it ultra thin,you might want your's to be alittle thicker.
my gearbox arrived y'day.here r some pic's.
has any one ever bought a gearbox from rancho performance before,if so what was it like.
question time?
has any one stuffed around with collector lengths or how thet merge,i make alot for customers ,but you don't want use them as test pig's,so i usually just make the norm.
but for myself i thought i might try something a little different.i copied a set of F1 style collectors .any info would be great.
i am going to make a few different styles and see which one works best with my combo.any pic's u have would be nice.
in the case of a turbo equal length's don't make any difference any way.the quickest path is the best path,unless you are using a split pulse turbo housing.
who did your pipes,give them a pat on the back for a job well done.did you perge weld them.
Yeah purged, they are boiler pipe and really thick but we found they moved around a lot when they wee heated. We even got some peices to move by just adding water when really hot. Incredible stuff. Yeah he did a really good job. www.aseturbo.com did some of the pipe work and a friend and myself finished it off.
T54
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
great stuff.
with the steam pipe i usually won't tak any more than 3 pieces at a time because they tend to pull quite a bit.
nice polish job on the pipes.that takes just as much time to do as making it.
i look forward to seeing more on your build,keep the pic's coming.
