Cheers guys..... I wanted to crack both 100mph and 13 seconds on my first decent power runs....
These runs were very untidy as I said, with rev limiter hitting very hard (at 6500rpm) and stopping the car between gear changes, and a little lean on boost (set at 12psi, which I didn't get to), but it still managed to get the targets.... With a terminal speed like that I should be low to mid 13's I think????.... And if I can keep it off the limiter, I could fesibly crack low 13 second with what I have.... More boost, but not much more with stock 8mm studs, would 12's be possible?
Apart from the lean boost issue, what would you guys suggest I do next?
Get that sixty foot time down. (raise the front will reduce the wheel spin)
Leave the engine alone except that little bit more fuel.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Cheers for that Dave.... You advise confirmed what my dyno guy said this morning when I rang him.... He is pretty impressed with the little mouse motor!
When I was running the car in NA form, my 60' times were down in the 1.6-1.8 pretty consistently.... If I manage something like that now, how will that effect my ET?
Definately low 13's in there without much work I reckon. As Dave said, sort the tune and drive it. The more you 'drive' it, the better the ET
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
All I see on those time slips is "lose" 😀
Nice one, good pic!
Stanley wrote:All I see on those time slips is "lose" 😀
😂 I was gonna say the same thing! Then again that's all my time slips have said since Warwick 2011!
Awesome result - 13's are stout indeed ! Amazing what a dyno tune will do !!!!
Stanley wrote:All I see on those time slips is "lose" 😀
Feck off!
😘
Actually.... I only won one race.... But I was chasing them down in all the others... From two lengths behind to on their doors across the line.... If I can get out of the hole nicely and stay off the limiter, I'd be there at the front for sure.... January 2nd is the next opportunity.
Simon, my 1641 does 1.6 - 1.7 60fts all day. The problem I've found is I have to drive it off the line as until it comes on boost it's a 1641. I've tried dropping the clutch and have had it bog until boost comes on. However after driving the 1916 NA motor I think I've got a better method which might get them down. Time will tell.
Feed it some clutch!! I leave the line in my bus with 5000rpm on toe and feed it clutch then away we go. And my bus is prolly twice the weight of your car!! Lol
ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
The problem for me a is a little different I think.... I'm still driving it like a low torque, small calibre NA engine.... Dropping the clutch at 5k!
The boost comes up really strong and 6500 redline hits very quickly, and I can't get second quick enough before the lmiter hits and kills power.... I know that longer gears will help me there, but its not in the budget, so the only other options are to launch at a lower rpm and possibly bog badly, or launch at the higher rpm and short shift or maybe try to launch in second.... I really don't think the clutch would last too long with that last option!
Still have a lot to try out and heaps to learn....
Do what Troy did with the type 3. Loaded up the transmission on the hydraulic hand brake and dragged it into stage them bring the revs up to about 5k then as the lights drop ease the hand brake down and slip the clutch. He had a 6500rpm redline and was launching just on or under 5k.
ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
You could get a linelock. mount the button on the right side of your steering wheel. leave on the limiter at 6500 , box loaded up and bang it into second. your hand will already be on the shifter. set your shiftlight a few hundred rpm below where you want to shift to give you more time to react.
Do you have a longer first in the new box?????
What front shocks are you using Simon? You have to get the weight to transfer to help the slicks hang on. An old set that pushes/pulls with no resistance is perfect! And as Dave said, lift the nose up, what you're aiming for is at 100mph to have the car sit flat for stability, any further nose down and your losing weight transfer, so yank it up a couple of inches and try it out.
I tried on a few manual cars (what works for me might not work for anyone else though) to actually "double-engage" the clutch, I do it on the bikes too when I leave the line. Hold the clutch in so it's not loaded at all, then time the lights and almost dump it, you're just giving your left foot a quick release, then snap the foot 1/2way back again almost straight away, then let it slide out slightly the rest of the way. The initial jerk of the foot will slam the weight back and shock the tyres, then the 1/2 stab back will load the motor enough to not break anything but should spin up the boost a bit. The whole process takes under a second, then you're out the door foot flat and boosted with weight transfer. Everyone has their own way, but this works OK for me.
Short shifting will load the boost in earlier too, so it may even be quicker to 330 if your gears are too short.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:Do what Troy did with the type 3. Loaded up the transmission on the hydraulic hand brake and dragged it into stage them bring the revs up to about 5k then as the lights drop ease the hand brake down and slip the clutch. He had a 6500rpm redline and was launching just on or under 5k.
That is what I do.... But the limit arrives before I'm ready for it.... Gotta shift quicker.
This is what's in the new trans Ben....
The car is launching very hard and straight, and feels good a stable in the top end.... It's a pretty tidy and fast launch... Then it falls on its face.... It's running out of gears.... I'm sure that's 'all' I need.... Shifting into second sooner is the key.
I reckon I'll pull the Black Mamba shifter and fit the BERG back in too.... It's less notch on the shift and hopefully this will make my shifts quicker and more consistent.
Gee Modnrod that sounds waaaaay complicated. Im flat out remembering to shift into second let alone dip it before i leave. I take my hat off to you for getting that down pat👍👍🤪👍
just move the limiter up...problem solved
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Boostn wrote:just move the limiter up...problem solved
How long do you reckon an ENGLE 120, with an eight dowelled DMS 69mm crank, BERG HD Nut on a 9lbs FW and BERG valve springs will last at 7000rpm?
🤪for ages, turn the boost up while your there
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nick@vollkommenart.com
Speed and Style
put some heavier springs in if you have to?
the biggest killer of an engine is bad tune up!!!!!!!
VOLLKOMMEN ART
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Speed and Style
whathaveidone wrote:Gee Modnrod that sounds waaaaay complicated. Im flat out remembering to shift into second let alone dip it before i leave.
Uhmm, yeah, reading it now, it does doesn't it?
😂
NA is so much easier, floor it off idle on the 2nd yellow, sidestep it on the last, easy-peasy.
Boostn wrote:just move the limiter up...problem solved
Or move the shift light down so it doesn't bounce off the limiter if you're worried.
Don't you have megajolt ignition on this car? Can you set it up as a 2 step to build a bit of boost on the line quicker?
Again, just some insight from an old man. With a turbo you need to have a 2 step and leave at full throttle. I set my lower rpm module at 5600 rpm's and set my upper at 8000 ( fk10 camshaft / Kawell grind ) my shift point is 7200 rpm's. If you have your timing set around 24 degrees and go full throttle at 5600 you should build some boost. The instant that you let the clutch out you will go up on your boost immediately. I never had the time to watch my shift light in first gear ( 3.78/ 3.88r/p on 26 in slicks} so as soon as I felt my arse push down into the seat I shifted into second. I have a line lock tied into the same button so the car will not roll after staging. Your rpm's and shift points will be differant than mine and will just take some experimenting. Here is an old video of my car with the old 2275 engine. The first pass is leaving by revving the engine up and dumping the clutch. Second and third passes are leaving on the 2 step, watch the 60 ft times.
Good luck, Mike McCarthy
Mike and Stanley are onto it with the shift light setting.
If they are too close to each other you will hit the upper limit all the time.
Mine at 8000 and 8400 are still to close, especially in low gear...I reckon a fair generic start point is about 500 rpm difference as a minimum.
I have no experience personally with the 120 but I like its numbers,
and my own 1775cc with 130 cam was sweet to 7000 run after run.
I DID step up to some bigger springs eventually when I went 7500,
but the scat or berg duals worked fine for 7000.
Just get some more runs on it Simon and pay around with all your RPM settings.
Seat time will always make you faster, and it is fun too!!
One more piece of advice: DONT COMPLICATE SIMPLE THINGS.
Just get out there and drive it!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
The car is running very nicely, still need to get the fuel exactly right, and I might try a hotter plug on the 9th.... But the 2nd will be just more seat time and getting that redline and limiter relationship sorted... The idea of stepping the two has crossed my mind..... I'll head down the shed in a sec set both of them.... Might move the max rev up a little too... But really the problem is all me here.... I'm still use to how the car ran in NA form.... I need to figure out how the turbo works at the track.... When this car was a street car and I had the DCOE on there, it was a pretty easy drive.... Though a little fuelly at times..... But now that I have the Megajolt working well, and the Holley is running so sweetly, the driver needs to catch up to the car!
A two step would be nice Mike and Owen, but as far as I know, nobody has made one work with the MJLJ ignition.... Still looking into that.... I might be able to use a micro switch to activate a staging map to excelleration map switch.... I'm just not sure if the ECU can handle that sort of thing.
As I'm running BERG dual springs, retainers and collets the valve train can possibly handle it.... But there are many miles on these parts... Not really interested in upgrading them, as the 2275 is on the shelf and ready to build.... Just need to save my pennies for longer cylinders, then it's time to build.
Getting the car to launch is not really an issue at the moment.... It's actually doing a pretty good job there.... Still running stock torsions and new german bushes and springplates without any form of limiter, so there is plenty to do under there later....
Like you say.... It's seat time that I need....
Cheers for that advise everyone.... Really appreciate it....
All the best for the silly season!
Hahahahahhaa..... I feel like a 4x4 owner now....
Large enough?
geez Simon, thats right out there!
will the wing fit over it?
