Hi all im building a type 4 for my baja there are two things i would like to do one is 76mm c/w crank stroker rods and a set of 103mm pistons and barrels that will make it a 2553cc or i was going to do the 103mms on standard stroke c/w what im trying to get at is that no body that i have met has build one this big and what i would like to know is there anything i should look out for and some problems i may enconter etc pic's would also be good
thnks tim
You only need two tools
Wd40 if it don't move and it should
Duct tape if it move's and it shouldn't
all the info is posted on aircooled .net very informative if you wanna save some bucks try /www.type4parts.com/cat_type_2.cfm
i was going down a similar path 78x103 but fell into the subi trap
toplessbug wrote:all the info is posted on aircooled .net very informative if you wanna save some bucks try /www.type4parts.com/cat_type_2.cfm
i was going down a similar path 78x103 but fell into the subi trap
i've heard some bad stuff about type4parts.com on the net. I'd try type4store.com instead.
THe MC Bat Commander's motto: "Never do now, what you could do for 24 hours straight, all night, the night before."
From aircooled.net referring to their 103/105mm p&c kits:
"These work well IF you use a copper head gasket, and aren't crazy with compression and power. Comes with wrist pins. BTW, that's a quarter in the picture! :-D
103s (consider them a 105 thick wall) are the standard for performance and reliability. That's 2.7L of power with an 80mm crank! These use J & E FORGED pistons. 5th studding is recommended, but milder engines can get by (with the copper head gasket) without it."
Oh, and these kits would be over AU$1000 landed in Oz!
Either way you go with a type 4 you will have to sell a leg all a arm.VForce best to talk to for a 2L.For your money to hp i would be maybe talk to some of the buggy blokes on this forum who are using Ej22 subie motors.JVLRacing
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
That can't be right:o....SHORT STROKE and BIG BORE is their prefered beast??????..........sounds familiar:kiss has someone finally learnt something ???amazing how the tide turns:thumb
And JVL...........shove ya subie up your arse :repuke... some people still want to be VW powered.
GO the Type4 :thumb
Have a chat with Stan Pobjoy or Wayne Penrose.nn[ Edited on 13-7-2005 by Craig Torrens ]
BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
Craig Torrens wrote:That can't be right:o....SHORT STROKE and BIG BORE is they're prefered beast??????.........sounds familiar:kiss amazing how the tide turns:thumb
Craig
rather than talk in riddles "please explain" what you mean.
I have seen several of Richards 2.3L's and this is what they are.
yes - he has/is building some 2.7 strokers but the cost of the crank and availability is $$$.
yes - he tells me he prefers the 66 over the 71.
Futue te ipsum!!!
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
:jesus.............................Short stroke and Big Bore.
Good to see someone else other than Stan Pobjoy realising the short stroke/ big bore option is the way to achieve a free revving engine.nn[ Edited on 10-8-2005 by Craig Torrens ]
Jake Raby is doing complete engine kits now.
Everything there ready for you to boltup and at different garanteed HP levels.
Not cheep but then this stuff aint.
...........shove ya subie up your arse :repuke... some people still want to be VW powered.
GO the Type4 :thumb
Im really starting to like this guy very well worded and one of the main reasons im building this is to stick it to the subies
The guy i was going to get the stuff of is www.bergmannracing.com is well know and i have herd great things about his engine parts i just don't know what to go with standard stroke or stroker, standard stroke would be easyer to build, i don't wan't win dyno days i just want somthing that will pull a tree out of the ground at idle and really move when you plant it so i have to find out what will do this. and is it really that expensive cause i look at the us prices and there cheap and getting them here can't be that bad nn[ Edited on 13-7-2005 by MUD BASHING ANYONE ?? ]
You only need two tools
Wd40 if it don't move and it should
Duct tape if it move's and it shouldn't
BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
MUD BASHING ANYONE ?? wrote:The guy i was going to get the stuff of is www.bergmannracing.com is well know and i have herd great things about his engine parts
hmmmmm not on STF or the other places i visit.
I dont think he is as bad as GEX and a few others but i certainly wouldnt be sending $$$ overseas to him.
I wouldnt mind hearing the good things you have heard. I have seen one of his full circle T4 cranks and it was quite good, but as for his coloured motors i can give first hand opinion just the flack from thr other sites
dont take my post the wrong way ,i would love to be t4 powered BUT my bus will be a tow vehicle for the boat and will also have to contend with the camping gear as well ,so after talking to jake raby he said a powerstroke would do admirably it has 92 hp and140ft/lb of torque the suby has132hp and160ft/lb so thats that.i know its not t4 but to get a reliable one to tow my boat bris to daintree 2times a year and not get hot thru summer, which is the only time to fish up there, and maintain a good speed is close to impossible without nickies and they are around 6k landed here ,then i need a crank and heads and inj and a case cause the million milers are ratshit and so it goes .honest i would dearly love to be t4 powered but its not practicle richard also suggested the 66x103 to me but i need stump pulling torque and i cant see where it will come from with such an oversquare motor even with a big rod ratio
That can't be right:o....SHORT STROKE and BIG BORE is their prefered beast??????..........sounds familiar:kiss has someone finally learnt something ???amazing how the tide turns:thumb
And JVL...........shove ya subie up your arse :repuke... some people still want to be VW powered.
GO the Type4 :thumb
Have a chat with Stan Pobjoy or Wayne Penrose.nn[ Edited on 13-7-2005 by Craig Torrens ]
Craig read what i wrote!!! not whats up your arse....Mud talk to VForce he will help you ,If you want to kick some arse get Alex Dieter all Richard to take you for a spin in a car with a type 4.This will make up your mind deffently.JVLRacing
Why must a thread asking specific questions about the build of a particular engine combo (whether it is YOUR preferred type/combo or not) degenerate into the old 1916 vs stroker vs suby arguement that we've all heard before.
I welcome and encourage open discussion that is on topic, but it would be nice to get back onto answering mudbashing's question/s.
Having had a type IV built recently (a mild 2L at that) I can concur that the cost is higher than a comparable type I build - but this is something you already know. There is a lot of valuable info on www.shoptalkforums.com in the type4rum and aircooledtechnology forum re. large piston size and sealing issues (head particularly and/or case). I wish I could give you first hand info re. intricacies of a big type IV build but I don't have that experience. I remember reading about a 3L type IV thread on aircooledtechnology forum that Jake Raby built - that may have some decent info.
search out john alder from volksengineering i know for a fact that volksengineering WAS building awsome t4 units that have graced a lucky few in bris i have only HEARD good things about this guy and his passion for perf bill flocke just imported a 2.4 from the states and has utalised johns exhaust system in his set up i also have after much reasearch gone the subie route hey if money is no option go the toureg mtr!!👍
