On a more positive note the heads have been lubed up, and assembled, and are ready to fit.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
just out of curiosity, do you have flow figures on those heads?
testing 1 2 3...
Yes, at what lift and pressure drop would you like?
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
how about 25in at a couple of points to 650? whatever figures you have, doesnt really matter, as long as they arent top secret!
testing 1 2 3...
Still looking, but heads on the car currently,
@.250" =172
@.500" =259
@.650" =285
@.750" =294 cfm @ 25"
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
I actually flowed them at 10" so these are converted figures.
My heads as pictured above flow less, but I havn't flowed them since I fly cut the crap
out of them for N/A use...but they were 10cfm@10" behind at .750".
This difference is not as great at lower lifts.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Found old figures...@.650 =272cfm@25"
@.750=279cfm@25" 0
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
cool, thanks. Higher than what i was expecting!
testing 1 2 3...
I am doing this assembly in my lunch time so not much progress...especially with all these head studs.
Barrels go on with the fitted piston, then circlips in and I use a grey silicone sealant under their base.
I like to fit the piston to the cylinder on the bench, before it goes on the engine.
I put never seize on the threads before the head goes on, because it is so messy.
Always use some type of lube on the threads.
I also quickly checked the conrod bolt tension (75ft-lbs in this case), before the bore kit was fitted.
[ Edited on 21-5-2006 by dangerous ]
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
A few of the head nuts on these and other brands of head are inaccessable with normal sockets,
so these tools are made to get to the upper and lower nuts.
Studs that have 10mm threads are torqued to 25 lbs and the 12mm top corners are at 30lbs.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
These photos show the extra headstud that is under the rockers, which uses a VW 15mm sized spanner.
And the other 12point nut is in the rocker area and is a 1/2 inch socket size. It is a tight squeeze and requiresthe washer and socket to be clearanced.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
With the heads tensioned down, I can double check that the pushrods and rockers on No1 are all as intended.
I set the tappets at zero by checking that the pushrod turns freely, and that I can feel no clearance.
This MUST be done when the engine is cold, and all the other rocker assemblies are on the engine
to even out load on the cam. This method can catch you out if the weather's temp changes, but usually
as soon as the engine warms up (steel based pushrods), the clearance re-appears.
At operating temp the clearance opens up to .016 to .020" !
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
With the tappets set I rotated the engine over full lift and then watched through the inlet port
as the engine passed TDC on the overlap to see that indeed the inlet valve actually
passes below the top surface of the piston in the notch.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
nice work Dave...keep the pics coming
Today at lunch I finished fitting the heads, and double checked the rocker and pushrod geometry.
The adjuster screw needs to be inline with the pushrod, when the valve is at half lift.
What I also noticed was that the heavy springs have (due to flex) taken alot of lift away.
The inlet had .710" with the soft springs, and now has .675" with the heavy ones.
Likewise, the exhaust is down to .605" from .625".
This is common with these springs, and the flex is in the pushrod, and (believe it!) those rocker arms.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Here is the pushrod angle at full lift.
At zero lift this angle should be about the same, only the othe way.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Also worth noting is that when I calculated the pushrod length, I had the adjuster screw only one turn from
under the rocker arm so that there was a minimum hanging out, but still had some adjustment.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Here is the engine head to head...it's no show-piece but I am a go-boy not a show-boy....yeah, should have
re-painted the cylinders!
Pushrod tubes are Pauter and use a water boxer seal at the case end and type one on the head end.
[ Edited on 13-1-2006 by dangerous ]
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
The ugly patch welded into the lid was from the old blower days and is a war injury from
a pair Carrillo rods that came out...well, the top half of them anyhow.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
it hurts just thinkin how much this would be costing you, looks great, thanks for the fast reply also, figured the time had something to do with it👍
Today I fitted the pushrod tubes and reassembled the rockers and push rods.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
The front cover contains the dizzy drive ( the only Volksy part other than the headstuds),
and has to have that, and the pulley seal fitted before instalation.
There is also an 'O' ring at the main gallery where the full flow return would be.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Well actually, the pulley was cool, but the damn degree ring was a night mare.
After marking out TDC and BDC I went to fit the degree ring and found that it was not flat enough
for the sticky back to hold. I suppose I cant complain, it was pretty cheap from Bergs (oxymoron?!)
I ended up Arylditeing it on and used clamps that I had to keep moving around, lest they stick to the pulley too.
Anyhow, the thinners that was supposed to activate the sticky back was used to wipe all the excess glue off me, my tools, and the pulley.
Once the pulley was on, I tensioned it up to 150 ftlbs.
Looks pretty good, but not worth the 10hours and materials needed to do the job!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
So here is where I am at today.
Next week will have the rocker covers on, and then the
rest of the parts will be robbed off the engine that is in the car at the moment.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
As Reub would say... HORN! That looks wild... I predict a new all motor record that will have the honda's crying no fair for years to come!
[ Edited on 14-1-2006 by iswinkels ]
Today I sealed up the rocker area with these massive rocker covers.
I also fitted a dunger dizzy to stop the drive winding out.
The flywheel is actually a modified 36 hp unit with the ring gear moved out a little
and some welding to form a location recess on the back.
The bolt pattern is a 3" pcd the same as most ford 6 and 8 cylinder engines.
I tensioned it down to 75 ftlbs.
[ Edited on 16-1-2006 by dangerous ]
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Ya better be wearing a harness, and carrying a torch when ya walk past those inlet ports
Very interesting thread, thanks
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa
lol... I love the fact that all these thousands of $$ and hundreds of hp are all transmitted through a (modified) 36hp flywheel 🙂 love the irony...
:P im drooling good to see some people aren't afraid to show what they have
and how to do it !!!!
13BVW 11.80@114mph
Welcome to the forum Andrew.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.