LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:ricola wrote:Great work Ian, this and Project GTO are pursuading me to go all out with my 1303 cab's chassis with G50 and EJ20t...
Rich
Mate you'd be crucified for doing that to an original cab over here.....
cut up a shitter and do it but not something worth keeping stock.
Nothing is "worth keeping stock".... Its only a freakin' car!.... Have a look at what my bro has done to to his BD 23.... Its bloody awesome!.... Make it the car YOU want dude... Just do it right and do it safe...
Safety and handling performanceis a big part of why i am doing this build up. The other reason is strength of the components. I arent going to be breaking any of this any time soon with a 2443cc twin turbo'd engine. The only risk area is the CV's, which have been proven on 944's that drag race to handle over 500rwhp. In a car that weights 300-400kg less they will survive.
The previous version of the car which was lighter than a stock beetle with just stock lowered suspension and koni shocks was scary as hell at 160k. When the 2332 turbo engine was at full noise it made the steering awefully light in the front end in every gear. Being able to tune the suspension for how the car is being driven is going to make a huge diference. As will movement of as much weight as possible to the front end of the car (battery, fuel cell, dry sump tank, radiators etc).
I decided to stop work after lunch today and get stuck into the re-assembly. The chassis is rolling again and looking like a go-cart from hell. Tomorrow I have to make a list of whats needed to finish the chassis and do an alighment on it prior to having it inspected which should be this week, at least for a preliminary inspection.
Also, Steve C you were right about the thread in the rear 944 trailing arms being a 1.25 pitch. The data on the Pelican Parts website is incorrect. I am going to be using extra long wheel studs to help attach the rear coil overs to the trailing arms. I figure I cam hammer them into an appropriately sized nut with the center machined out a little and i'll have an instant bolt that will be the correct thread for the job. None of the fastener shops up here carry metric fine threads in the size i need...
Cheers,
Ian
looking great Ian !!
Cheers
D
Top stuff Ian.... Its totally mad.... And if you need some bolts I might be able to source them for you here.... I have a metric bolt shop that have all sorts of strange stuff.... I sourced some M14 Left Hand Thread nuts the other week for a Silvia project a mate is working on... You wouldn't believe what these guys have!
yeah awesome work!
Pay your debts, CxxT
Nice work Ian - all the best for the inspection.
Looking great!!! Can't wait to hear about the test drive!
Jason
If I could just get paid for my sleepless nights....
2008 BMW 335i
2001 BMW M3 'Vert
1998 BMW M3 Sedan
1960 VW Bug
Bad Dub RacingHi everyone,
Well the engineering is postponed till next week. I forgot the guy doing my engineering is watching the F1 in melbourne. So this weekend I am just going to tidy up a few area's and finish the alighments etc.
I didnt get a lot acomplished today as i went to the Cairns porsche club monthly meeting. Its the only german car club up here so i figured its worth a look. Becuase we had over 100mm of rain last night and it hasnt stopped raining for 4 days only two porsches showed up. Everyone else was in their daily instead. One of the two porsches was a graphite coloured Porsche 997 turbo though, so there was some candy to see.
When i got home after lunch I finished the slotting and base alignment of the front left side suspension. I've set it to 0.5 degrees camber, 7 degrees castor and the slottling allows for 0.5-1.5 degrees camber and 4.3 to 8 degrees castor. I am told the semi slicks respond well with a fair amount of camber but i have no idea what to set it to yet, so i've gone with settings that would be used on the typical light track duty 911. I have to make up a top plate to allow the castor to be locked while adjusting camber, which will also support the load carried by the shock over a wider area inside the strut tower.
And here's a picture...
I started on the left side but then visitors showed up and much bullshit was talked about instead. Should have the left done tomorrow.
Cheers,
Ian
You might want to make it able to handle camber up to -4 degrees, with a strut setup you'll probably want more camber for track stuff.
Jason
If I could just get paid for my sleepless nights....
2008 BMW 335i
2001 BMW M3 'Vert
1998 BMW M3 Sedan
1960 VW Bug
Bad Dub Racingvolkdent wrote:You might want to make it able to handle camber up to -4 degrees, with a strut setup you'll probably want more camber for track stuff.
Jason
....i'll see you and raise you to 6 degrees negative camber
this build is just crazy
🤪........i luv it!
The camber setting is a minimum setting.
There is a place for an adjustment bolt in between the two strut to spindle mount bolts. By adjusting that i could change the roll center position which will vary static camber, and camber through the range of suspension travel. I dont think i'll be doing that any time soon, too complicated.
You might want to make it able to handle camber up to -4 degrees, with a strut setup you'll probably want more camber for track stuff.
Yes your right. For the moment i am just setting up for the street and making things adjustable. I have been amazed with how straight everything is after all the welding was done.
I finished the other side yesterday and started looking at the gear linkage side of things. Off to buy a little more steel so I can finish the seat mounts and start on brake lines etc.
Thats bloody awesome stuff Ian.... Inspirational!
Looks great. Stock is boring. Go nuts 🙂
And a comment on the approval engineers, just remember most of them aren't actually engineers. And you get idiots in any profession. 😂
Wes -
www.offroadvw.net - 200HP Quad Cam V6 in a VW Baja - with climate control...
🙂
www.taylorcycles.com.au - My DH MTB racing brothers shop.
Woo Hoo! 😂
Passed engineering inspection today for the suspension, steering and gearbox modifications. I've been give the go ahead to have the chassis painted and all that remains is for the engineer to check out the steering shaft attachment once the body is on the pan.
I've been working on the gear shift and re-located the hand brake leaver further backwards on the weekend. I've also started on seat mounts, pedals etc.
All i need to do now is finalise the hydraulic clutch master cylinder mounting and im ready to have the chassis blasted and painted. Here's a pic.
Cheers,
Ian
HUGE congrats dude.... great news...
Reub
What was the end result with reverse Ian?
Where is it in the gate? Up forward on the LHS?
Cool shifter set-up!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Congrats on the pass!!!
Can't wait to see the progress yet to come
👍Reub told me about this....looks good
looking good, what shifter is that im just putting a 915 in my car and want it to be close to the steering wheel- that looks great (but expensive)
thanks adam deb
Hi Adam,
The shifter is a Hargett Precision shifter. The quality is very nice, they are all CNC machined. The price has come down since i bought mine and the aussie $ is better now too ... bugger
http://hargettprecision.com/index.php?cPath=35
Cheers,
Ian
Not much progress made today but I did manage to complete installation of my hydraulic master cylinder. Its a 3/4 master cylinder and has 36mm throw, s thats a lot of fluid. Im told it can be sleaved down to nearly any size, so just need to plum it up and work out whats needed.
Getting any data on the Saab slave cylinder/throw out bearing that the 930 box is using isnt easy. So I figured i'd just try something and see how it works out.
Next is the front to rear brake line and clutch line, plus fuel lines.
Brilliant solution there Ian.... What are you planing to do about the reservoir for the clutch cylinder?.... Going remount or doing something special with your fuel tank?.... That price for the shifter is mind blowingly cheap for what you get!!! Awesome find that....
The clutch master cylinder has its own resivour built in. It doesnt have a clear part to view the fluid level is all. As for the fuel tank I'll be using the standard one most likely. My tank is already welded and modified with 3/4" fuel supply and return fittings in it. I will be considering a fuel cell as well though, with about 1/2 the capacity of the standard tank.
But surely the reservoir will be a hassle to get to with the OG tank in place? Or will you mount the tank on a hinge of some sort?
Just thinking the same thing myself....
ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
As the steering linkages are in front of the spindles and not behind them it should be possible to easily fill up the resivours pretty easily from inside the wheel arch if the car is jacked up or put on ramps. Either way its not as though it will be consuming volumes of brake fluid. I doubt it will ever need a top up inside one year.
Hi
Looking good. You could always put a fitting on the top clutch master and fit a remote reservoir. A lot of other cars run a tube straight off brake fluid reservoir to feed the clutch master, but its outlet is a little higher than the reservoir base, that way you run out of clutch fluid before you run out of brakes, its to protect those that never open their bonnet to check things.
Steve
I dont see it as a huge issue. If I use a fuel cell i'll have a gap down the side of the tank that will allow me to reach in there with a 1/2 lt bottle of fluid to top it up. I dont like remote resivours as you inevitably end up with a fluid leak at some stage, and resulting paint damage. Id rather be inconvenienced that have paint damage. Using a fuel cell allows me to have a more up-right tank, which will allow me to consider moving the dry sump tank to the front of the car as well for better weight distribution and safety.
I picked up the last of the brake lines this afternoon and also some 3/8th steel tube to use as fuel lines. I've still got to finalise how the hydraulic clutch line is going to go as part of it has a rubber flex hose that joins from the box to the chassis.
I dropped some templates for my anti-roll bars off to the suspension shop today so they can be sent away to have whiteline make me some custom ones. There is going to be a 3 week wait on these at least so I am told... which is a bugger, because I cant weld on the mounts for the bars to the chassis till i get them back. That means no disassembly, no sand blasting... etc.
Still waiting on a seat rail kit too, so progress has stalled till parts start to arrive again.
man that is so cool , you must have time on your hands good luck to you ,cant wait to see its shell on ist it gunna be a sleeper or a show pony?
show us your gates
Whats so special about the brackets that you need to send them to Whiteline to make?.... I have had loads of things laser or water jet cut locally and its a very quick turn around....
