Craig Torrens wrote:and when you change gears (at 5200) the rev drop will then take you to below where the cam is efficient...............not very sensible for a daily driver.
🙅
Cam comes on about 2200 according to the building, and that is what I have experienced prior to the twin plugs.
The difference in revs between changing at 5000 or 5500 is:
272 for 1st to 2nd
306 for 2nd to 3rd
326 for 3rd to 4th
The revs at the next gear for a 5000 gear change is:
2724
3058
3253
all after the cam has come-on.
IT IS NO BIGGY!!
Steve, when you say "redline is set" I'm assuming you mean the rev limit/cut off of the computer? If so I think you are missing my point.................your redline is set 1000rpm below the specs of the motor......so you should be showing the difference between 5200 and 6200 on your gear calculator (rev drop) not from 5500 to 5000.
Also the 37/68 cam "comes on" at 3500rpm not 2200rpm (as per builders specs), so with EVERY one of your gear changes you are 300 to 800rpm below where it actually starts to work effectively.
The 2200rpm refers to the "crash point" of the cam, which is the lowest point where it will accept "full throttle" on an engine dyno test.
Glad you're happy and the car is back on the road, but you are not matching your fuel delivery system with your engine specs.
base pobjoy 1916 with twin plugs...........37/68 cam, standard 040 heads, 94mm PB, balanced standard crank blah blah...............the same motor that he built for you years ago, unless you've changed it.
Every other base has no probs running to 6200rpm.
Steve, I just want you to get the best out of your motor but it seems there is really no point me trying to give you advice.......good luck with it.😎
i'm sure you know i'm not being critical or difficult Steve............i admire the install and someone chasing exactly what they are after for THEIR car be it the easiest, cheapest, best blah.......that's certainly what i did too.
there are plenty of other factors that might be retarding the dyno figure........maybe it's the dyno itself as stated, there is plenty of gain from different exhaust styles/sizes what maybe 10HP!........hell even the muffler might be holding it back by a few.........who knows maybe the engine is wanting a bigger system now. some more specs on the engine would help to see wether it's a good figure or not.........BUT
..that's not the issue, i'm very interested to see how quiet it is, the difference in fuel economy and general drivability of it........can't wait to hear what YOU find, after all you will be the only one able to let us know the differences.
well done!!
happy with the way the boys went about it down there?
I am an infrequent poster on this forum but I do look at it every week or so, the tech threads being the most interesting to me. I have been in the professional engine R&D business for over 30 years. However in many cases practical/hands on experience leaves the the theory for dead.
What amazes me is that most the tech threads ends up in a pissing contest.
Steve I admire what you have achieved, having done my own EFI in the back shed it is a real sense of achievement getting it all together after understanding in a hands on way - pulse width, TPS, TB, trigger wheels, etc, etc and then firing up the beast!
Don't take the various comments as criticism - just more constructive comments.
Well said Ken - and steve, really well done, i think its a tops effort.
Im not trying to be difficult but my base pobjoy with twin plugs revs to 6200rpm with no problems, and it stops to push after 5500rpm. My exhaust set-up is one of classic veedubs stainless steel numbers.
the 'combo' you speak of had twin kadrons, correct?
If so, you may not have realised yet BUT THEY HAVE GONE! The intake system is completely different, so it is a different 'combo'. With other changes more than 6200 is possible, but that would also be a different 'combo'. 🤪
Ken, you're right.
I'm listening to the constructive stuff, sometimes even quoting it.
What is frustrating is when some people can't get their head around the fact that what works for some, don't work for everyone.
This engine/EFI conversion has ticked all the boxes for MY NEEDS. The previous set-up didn't, but it wasn't a bad set-up by any means.
I concede that there are COMPROMISES, but what you miss out on the ferris wheel you pick up on the merry-go-round (so to speak). As DB said above, torque down low has probably increased, where it counts. Even the intake system on my family Dunnydore is a compromise. If I wanted to take it to the track every month I'd probably put ITBs on it, but why would I want to when it's a daily driver.
As I've said before, there are most likely inefficiencies in the intake system (the runner ends came off a 1600). But this system fulfils other needs/functions/intentions blah blah blah of MINE. Not anyone else's. I determined it would be easier to use them and join where they finish rather than have someone design and make completely new ones. I'm not stopping or discouraging anyone else from doing it though.
So I'm not sure why people are so intent on 'rubbishing' this, or defending the old carbed engine.
If you have a similar engine and want more peak HP (but maybe less torque down where it counts for a daily driver) don't do what I did. Put quad TBs on it and put up with the noise and drone for over 2 hours a day.
Not me. 🤪
Daimo,
The boys down there were extremely helpful. While Brendan tuned, Graeme explained what he was doing with timing and fuel etc.
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa
Hats off to you mate.. Even though I didn't get my hands dirty on the EFI for my vehicle (I am TTT deficient - Time, Tools, Talent) I fully understand the tweaking, tinkering and decision making you go through to get WHAT YOU WANT.. My 1916 is going to deliver hopefully, a beautiful balanced, torquey output. The last piece in the jigsaw was the exhaust setup and that will be finalised next week. Westside fabricate a sweet looking twin setup that is going to still give me the twin pipe "stock" look.
All the best.. Rob
You won't be seeing any of those mate.. The coil (Golf 4) is tucked behind the shroud and the leads are all from the back.. No dizzy (trigger wheel like yours).. The only hose will be a bradied line from the breather on the neck down through the tinware..
Its not PLAIN! I'm a minimalist!!
56astro wrote:Thanks Rob.
Your engine bay looks so .............. plain (in a nice way).
Looking forward to seeing it full of wiring and hoses 👍
56astro wrote:It never went to 6200, even after the bigger fuel line was put in.
And 99% of the gear changes were no where near that anyway.
Stock beetle gearing puts the 1st-2nd gear change below 3500, so if what you're saying is correct, the cam is not 100% suited to the stock gearing.
Again, what combo??
Hey Steve, My reply was in regards to this...i assume 'it never' referred to the old combo you had, that is carbies etc...
My concern was that maybe something was off to cause the lower rpm, which may be effecting your current engine combo. Maybe its just a high end thing, in which its of no big deal to you as your after a torque increase, but then it could still effect lower end. iunno, im a novice - just letting you know that on carbies mine hits 6200 no problems.
I'll leave it at that, i wont mention RPM anymore!! 😂
Look forward to seeing it and especially hearing it, or not hearing it should i say.
sounds good.
how long before your fist cruz.or have you been there done that already.
how did you go with the tb ,did it work out ok or did it get the arse.
hopefully all is well and we will see some more photage of it in action soon.
Pick it up Monday and take it to the engineer - NRMA (ctp) - RTA.
Not sure with the cold start stuff, they were supposed to be doing that today. They said they'd like it back in a month or so to go over the maps.
I have put together a compilation of the footage but some of the sections come out as stills. I'll work on it, get some more, and post it up.
Thanks for your help and assistance. Without people such as yourself this thing would never have gotten off the ground (some people wished it had never gotten off the ground 😏)
As we say in the job, see ya at the big one!
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa
Bet you cant wait to drive it. I remember when I first went from IDAs to EFI I couldn't believe how good the car was to drive, you put your foot down at any time and know exactly how the car would react.
StenGuns wrote:Hats off to you mate.. Even though I didn't get my hands dirty on the EFI for my vehicle (I am TTT deficient - Time, Tools, Talent) I fully understand the tweaking, tinkering and decision making you go through to get WHAT YOU WANT.. My 1916 is going to deliver hopefully, a beautiful balanced, torquey output. The last piece in the jigsaw was the exhaust setup and that will be finalised next week. Westside fabricate a sweet looking twin setup that is going to still give me the twin pipe "stock" look.
All the best.. Rob
what type of end castings are you using there, CB or self made? looking at going this route. what is the approximate cost of these?
Anyone wanting to do this should price all the components necessary for THAT PARTICULAR system. Then factor in labour costs for all the work you can't do yourself (in my case that was a lot).
Cheapest way I imagine would be to wack on a set of quad TBs.
Try a different bait Craig!
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa
you'd be surprise how expensive a quad throttle body setup is. I got a 'cheap' quote for an entry level setup that roughly added up to $4k before fitting or tuning. So I don't if I'd say I could "wack" on quads as the cheapest way.
Astro, respectfully, it would be great to know the details of what you've spent (itemised) so others can pick your brains a bit. I see what you're aiming for and for a street car it's a good aim. You are right about hidden costs though.
the nay-sayers would just laugh at the costs, so why give them the satisfaction. I learnt a lesson very recently, quite often it is better to be secretive, unfortunately.
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa