Josh and I use the stock sump and we have stock suspension and the sumps have hit the ground real hard a lot of times, but no leaks yet ,
plus they were already damaged from the motors been dragged around on the floor .
stock sumps are cheap and you could fab up a little bash plate.
Ps they only hit the ground on boost on uneven road. 🤪
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
Mick058 wrote:Alright, need advice re shortened sumps.
Question 1 - are they the same on all EJ20 engines. Some seem really low, while mine currently is about 20mm or so below the oil filter. Not much of a clearance saving - or is the idea to also do something about the oil filter?
Question 2 - any known issues with shortened sump? I have read all the other material about them on the forum, just want an update if any issues.
Question 3 - has anyone cracked the original by hitting it on the ground?
Mick058 wrote:Jak, what happened at the 'almost 4 years' mark? Bust the original or just thought to change.
Headers wise, im not 100% Joel, will try and catch up with Brad tonight - idea is to re-do it all, but as to where and how high - not sure yet.
The almost 4 years came about that I had forgotten that my children were getting bigger, now 9 & 6, when I drop them to school I was noticing that i was "touching" speed humps in their school more & also the driveway out it was touching. I then realised that the kids were getting bigger, slightly.
It's not a problem for all the Mums in their BMW & Merc 4wd though LOL.
As for the headers, be careful as on the rexxy forums, they all complain from a lack of bottom end torque after changing the stock headers.
regards
Jak
Modifying the sump is fairly easy mate. You lop off however much you wish and fabricate an inverted T to weld onto whats left of the original sump. The inverted T means you keep the same volume of oil in the sump.
Take a look at Custom Veedub in stafford brisbane and you'll see what i mean. Custom Veedub shortened sump
yeh i understand what you mean - i know capacity is the key - you need to make sure you add 'wings' or a make a 'T' shape as you say to keep capacity.
$600 though - a bit of dosh for 20mm or so gain (maybe less??). Also alot of debate in regards to shortening it all, even while increase capacity via width.
I think ill wait for now and see how it goes. The anti surge Pobjoy sump hung pretty low but i never hit it. Gear changes and a squat in a Sti engine may change that fact though.
Even i shortened it i would need to go for a remote oil filter, otherwise it will be the lowest thing and the saving clearance would not be worth it.
Sorry, there not that exciting, but at least its visual!
Gives an idea of clearance etc. Obviously the car isn't completely settled here - rolled it back and forth a little, but it would sit a little lower than this. Plus, currently no oil, water, intercooler, heat exchanger etc - so a little more weight out back to come.
The car is looking good, I will have to come over for a look soon.
I have a bugs@5speed sump for my car, I haven't fitted it as yet.
With varying opinions on shortening sumps Ive invested in a 2 quart (1.8 litre) Accsump from Canton Racing to alleviate any oil starvation issues mand to do a pre lube before starting.
I will need to remotely mount the oil filter to run the Accusump.
The commonly available oil take off blocks have the fitting ports pointing straight down, by the time the fittings are fitted they end up lower that a stock oil filter.
So Ive also ordered a take off block from Canton
I'm planning on using the stock oil 2 water cooler until it proves unreliable, but Jak has said in another post that his oil temps with the stock cooler are fine, getting rid of the stock oil cooler would raise the oil fliter.
with the sump that I made, I now have an oil capacity of 6 litres, up from the standard 5 litres. With the standard sump I only get my oil temps up to 90d on the track, thats after 5 laps around Eastern Creek on a 35d day. Now my oil temps are even lower! The last thing u need is a cooler on these things. U will never get the oil hot enough.
Keep as much of the factory stuff as possible & keep it simple, keep it reliable👍
so your not mounting a radiator at all for the oil?
And Jak, you have no issues this way either?
I'm not planning on running an oil cooler, but may in the future if i find the temps are high - if i shorten the sump, then i will get the oil cooler kit which runs a remote oil filter.
There is absolutely no reason to run an oil cooler with these motors. I have done countless trips on the freeway in the middle of summer sitting on 140kph, over 15 track days & never had the oil over 90d & thats an extreme temp for my oil. It's always much lower particularly on the street which is where our cars spend most of their time.
Spend your money elsewhere Mick. There is no reason to complicate these conversions with extra lines & coolers. there is enough of that as it is.
Mick are you running a narrowed beam? I want to throw this question out for comment if you are....
If you're running a narrowed beam, with all of that extra power, will it not make the car more prone to oversteer even swinging right around for that matter if it does get away from you? And therefore you might need to consider putting in a normal width beam to give you that extra front track, and therefore stability?
fair comment - what do people think? I have heard this from others too Squizy.
I had some 'advice' when i first had the car that i 'needed' to run a narrowed bar to keep the wheel choices - this was early on in the and i was on a steep learning curve.
I believe CT runs the same wheels without the narrowed beam and i believe not a whole bunch of negative camber.
Brad (westi) - what do you think? how much labor?
I have thought about this, forgot to ask Brad about it last night - better now then later! Also, i don't mind running a bit of Neg camber if i need to as its not a daily driver!
I could probably find someone to do a swap with if i needed too.
tell me, by increasing wheel size on a narrowed beam, saying i increase 1inch track per side - will this result in the same outcome as a standard beam?
Or, if i added spacers to the current beam - say 1inch thick each side - would that be the same outcome as having a standard beam?
So what im saying is, will handling improve by sticking the wheels out further, or does the narrowed beam issues come simply from the fact that its narrowed?
Does this make ANY sense?
So is it all to do with wheel positioning, or will handling still suck simply due to the fact that the beam is narrowed, no matter how much i 'push' the wheels out.
But for the exercise sticking 1 inch spacers on a 2 inch narrowed beam is not the same as having a non narrowed beam.
The centre line of the tyre/wheel if using spacers is is moved further out from the centre pivot line of the steering knuckle, this will have many effects, extra load on wheels bearings, more likely that the suspension will be upset undulations and potholes etc.
Steve
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
pushing the wheels out on spacers will give you back the more stable handling of a stock beam but you'll then increase the stress on the front bearings due to shifting the load further out. In extreme load conditions, heavy cornering whilst braking, this could cause the stub axle to break off. its all about the point of leverage
Imo the shortened beams are for looks and the standard beam for handling but thats me 🙂
