Boostn wrote:if the car hooks up too well at a good track, you can let the car down at the spring plates and make it wheel spin because of the negative camber only uses some of the tyre and not all of it.
Likewise if the track sucks you can dial the car up so the tyre is flat using all of it.
This method can also save boxes, because you can allow it to wheel spin a little instead of going home early with a broken tranny.
Just like Nick says, and playing with bump stops (size and length), tyre press, front ride ht, amt of droop etc etc. all effect launch and car reaction.
As for the pan, I'd just pick the lightest, best condition.
Tranny, my bet, 1500 to start with, find a few close gears and a super diff and hd side plate and get DB to put it all together.
EASY❗
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Hey guy's! Ok well, I have seleted a suitable floorpan from the vw grave land i call my back yard but having no body i'm unsure of the year and would like to find out. I t has a gear box in it with numbers 23 113 301 103 on the side of it??? Can anyone ID this?
Hey Dave, thanks for the advice but all i could find was a stamped code a bit lower but it was a number, it read 5834923??? the vin number is 5594983 if that helps narrow it down???
I should have some pics up soon of the state we found this pan and the body!
That's the one David.
Pre 1967 in Australia they had no letter prefix on the stamped number(other than a few exceptions).
My guess would be that itis just an early(weak) 40hp box, and probably not much good (hard to say without a picture).
IF you can find one with a number beginning with 7,
or better yet one with a letter prefix,
you might be onto a reasonable base.
Ultimate would be late 1300, or 1500 beetle with recess and bush for 12 volt flywheel.
Hey Guy's,
Not much to report, just booked in at custom for stage one on the first of April. That will include shortening the pan i've got and making the tube frame floor sides with alluminium pan halves. The front end will go on when i get it back (no brakes) and in the mean time D.B. will be putting together the box, then that can be solid mounted plus hydraulic clutch and rear Disc's.
Good luck too everyone at Portland and wish i was coming.😎
STAGE.1.
Hey guy's, sorry it's been a while but Custom Vee Dub have been very busy but i have just dropped the floor off to Dave and the boys and have all faith that it's going to come back awesome! They will have it over April while i am over living it up in the U.S.A. I will be back at the end of the month and will have a whole lot more to report!!!
Hey guy's, just a quick update. Well i have the body removed from the old twisted up floor (nearly fell off with all the rust!!!) and have started to gather some key items, like my genuine Gene Berg shifter which i got from Gene Berg enterprises in Orange CA on my recent trip to the USA. i'm still waiting for the actual floor to be finished at custom vee dub but as soon as i get it i will post some pic's of it and the body, (and the shifter!)
I now have sponsorship throgh my parents buisness Allpave asphalt servises, under 'Allpave Racing' so things should move forward a little easier now. This is still all new to us and i'm sure I will still be calling on support when I need it. There was even a mention of Craig and VWMA coming on board once i finally finish this project.
OK Guy's, it's all starting to happen now, the floor is cut to size and the body, even though cracked and twisted, seems to fit preety good. started smoothing out the sides of the body and preparing to slice all excess fibreglass from the rear of the body. Once the body is bolted in place we will repair the damaged section and finalise seating position, then off to Custom again for the roll cage (Dave's got something crazy in mind???).
Mean while i sold my motorbike today and so therefore have the funds needed for a drivetrain! just got to find one now? or more than likely just build one from scratch with Dangerous.
Hey, Yet another update. I had a few discussions with the Muffin man over the last couple of weeks and have came up with quite a nice little pakage i thought.
I ended up getting on to a 76 single side plate box, with that and the swinger out of the pan i've used i have the specific internals and the tubes etc... needed for the new Rhino case we've orded. Internals being replaced are with Albins 1st and 2nd, with 1800 kombi 3rd and 4th for now,
Alluminium spool diff, Billet side plate with thrubolt, and more!
Undecided about Axles, apparently alot of guy's are breaking sway away's Dave said. Maybe a bad batch. Any other ideas on Axles?
Dave said he'd have it for me in about 3-4 weeks so progress will continue on the body for now so i can get it off before the box returns for fitting.
trickysimon wrote:Could you use a spool in a street car or would the tyre wear be too great? Looks good btw 👍
Hi Simon,
tyre wear would be the least of your worries on the street.
The biggest concern would be the shocking understeer.
I know some guys that run them for street use,
but it is quite dangerous if you are not alert ALL the tme.
With the VW's light front suspension it can push straight quite easy.
For you, a superdiff and side cover would be the best and only 2/3 the price.
hey Db , so the stock pinion is cut by a klingenburg, yeah?
Will it be ready for Warwick?
AARON'S SPEED SHIFT AUTOS
Specialising in Vw automatic transmissions, differentials and torque converters
Stock or modified to suit your application (street, drag, off road)
Ph 0402 233 027
Hi Aaron,
you have an eagle eye there dude.
that 4.375 is actually one that was made on an Oerlikon machine.
I is a very similar tooth form to the Klingelnberg, being a thicker tooth at the heel.
Most 4.375's were gleason,
but the Australian ones in the mid sixties were Oerlikon.
