Cool Steve, have you decided on using a pump, and if so what type of pump have you decided. Maybe a temp gauge at first to monitor what's going on???
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Hi Matt
I have a 12 volt Whale pump that was on Dave Stockers water to air inter cooler on his Ghia, I was going to use that but I'm not sure how reliable it would be after sitting around all these years, so I'm going to fit a Davies Craig booster pump.
The hoses will be near back seat kick panels, I should be able to monitor the heat produced there.
Steve
What about using an oil thermo switch for the pump to cycle on at 90*, might keep temps in the system more stable.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Hi Matt
Good idea, but I might run the pump flat out to start off with, I'm worried that if the water isn't circulating it might get a rapid expansion that the radiator cap cant cope with.
Steve
Hi Matt
Tridon make a fan switch that would be ideal to turn the pump on.
I could give the pump power direct from the battery, so it would turn on when the coolant in the heat exchanger reaches a decent heat and then continue to circulate coolant after shutdown to avoid heat soak.
TFS110 Fan switch
Thread - 3/8 GAS
Circuit - Normally Open Ground
Temp Range: 87ºC to 82ºC
Spanner - 21mm
Steve
matberry wrote:Cool Steve,
Hang on there,Matt, Steve wants 'warm', doesn't he, not 'cool'?
😂I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
1303Steve wrote:I could give the pump power direct from the battery, so it would turn on when the coolant in the heat exchanger reaches a decent heat and then continue to circulate coolant after shutdown to avoid heat soak.
Steve
Sounds like a good idea.....er...... warm even
🙂
Make sure it's a continuous duty pump so it doesn't break down which could be an issue. And what happens if the temp goes over 87*? Maybe it goes open circuit again which also maybe interesting???
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Hey Matt, thats just an ordinary rad fan switch.
As soon as it hits 87c it goes to ground to turn the fan on and stays like that till it gets down to 82c then it goes back to open circuit
Joel wrote:Hey Matt, thats just an ordinary rad fan switch.
As soon as it hits 87c it goes to ground to turn the fan on and stays like that till it gets down to 82c then it goes back to open circuit
Perfect
🙂Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
So has anyone come up with a design and tested it yet??? I was thinking abou this the other day... and i might be repeating what you guys are saying, but, cou you have an external oil cooling radiator (sorry of thats the wrong word)above the gearbox and then have a fan that blows air through it into a duct that is custom made but goes into the normal heating holes under the rear seat??? You would have to be able to blow that air outside when you did not want heating but would that be possible??? there is already heat there... a fan wouldn't drain too much power hopelly and the ducting would be the biggest problem??? How does that sound.
Again sorry if i'm repeating
What will you do with the superheated water when you do not need the heat inside the car? Or, will you run the pump continuously thereby having constant heat blowing into the car even on hot days?
Hi
Aussie Dubbin, I don't think the oil cooler will get enough heat in it to be affective on cold days.
I covered how cool the oil cooler was in an earlier post and pushing new air through it all the time will cut down on the efficiency, it needs to be recirculated.
The heat exchanger is nearly done, I cant wait to fit it altogether in time for Valla, if you want to have a look at the setup let me know.
Funbug, the only answer I have to this is moving it away form the header in warmer weather, it will only held on with hose clamps.
Steve
Modern water cooled cars no longer have a shut off tap on the heater core. Hot water goes through the core all the time. It is just the fan that determines whether the heater is working or not. So if you put the heat exchanger core over the gearbox as opposed to under the back seat, wouldn't matter in summer as long as the electric fan was turned off. Might make it easier to direct the hot air into the heater channels as well. Does that make sense?
Cheers..Wayne
Hi
I picked up the heat exchanger today from Westi, excellent job as usual.
Cant wait to get it hooked up and see if it works effectively.
Steve
Design looks good and workmanship very impressive. I am also very interested to see how it works as I have been contemplating a similar idea for years as I hate the oily smell from the standard setup (however I am sure when I rebuild the motor there will be a lot less oily smell when the heater is turned on). Other big advantage is an electric fan to really push the warm air into the cabin and on to the screen when needed.
Cheers
Hi
The fan unit I bought is from a Nissan 180 , the speed is very impressive, it nearly took off from the bench when I hooked it up, I'm going to run a slow speed through a ballast resistor and high speed when needed, there was a fan resistor attached to housing but it didn't seem to alter the speed at all, maybe it was used in conjunction with climate control.
I'm not a fan of smelly heaters either, another problem we struck in extremely wet weather was after going through a puddle we had an instant sauna with 0 visibility, not nice at 100 kph.
Steve
Hi
Its all together now, but its too late to start the car up now to see if it heats up OK, fan and pump are working fine.
Steve
Couple more
very cool steve hope it keeps you warm and toasty on the drive to valla!!
EVERLAST CONCRETE TANKS
1800 552 123
Since when does that car have a rear sway bar.....
Looking good steve!
Hi
I will start it up today and see how goes, I want to get a few heat cycles in hoses so that I can tighten them again before Valla, looks like I might need the heat🥲
Colonel, that is the bar from my old 1302, its always been on there.
Steve
So whats on the other side of that box around the exhaust???
Is there a matching half circle...
Hi
No its just the 1/2 circle. I think that I will get enough heat with what I have fitted
Steve
Right help me out if you can...
i have just spent th last hour re reading the whole post... all of it there is a lot. now i am trying to understand how the system works, and i cant work it all out. Sorry my mechanical understandings are all self taught. So correct me when i get it wrong or fill in the blanks if you can please.
The "heat exchanger" is the stainless thingy welded up around the shape of the j-tubes. an cold fluid from behind the rear seat is pumped in and hot fluid is pumped up to the rear seat "thingy" (what is that called?). I imagine once thefluid is there it runs through a "mini-radiator" type thing that allows air to be blown across it to heat the air before it goes to the heating channels via your flexible tubing??? what does the return tube do in the top of the alloy tube thing in the corner? Also how does this alloy tube "thing?" work? How does fluid get to the alloy tube and where does it come form in the system and what triggers this change? I imagine the blue pipe is overflow and does this get stored or exited from the sytem? What happens if the system runs dry? And can you please re explain the pump on of mechanism and fan cycle??? Also where is the fresh air coming from???
Sorry if thats a big ask but i am very interested in our system and i cant understand some of the points.
Cheers if you can help.
that tube bit next to the heater core blower thingy is a reservoir for the coolant that circulates round the system. The blue tube thats connected on top is the overflow tube in case it over heats.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
It looks really busy underneath the rear of your car. I am looking forward to reading how well the system functions and whether there are any drawbacks or not.
Hi
The heat exchanger and the heater unit (small radiator) are connected by 2 hoses, one of the hoses has a small electric pump to circulate coolant, I choose to push the coolant from the heater unit to the heat exchanger thinking that the pump would see less heat and live longer on the cooler side of things.
One of the 2 lines between the heat exchanger and the heater unit has a T piece in it, the coolant is filled via the alloy header tank into this T piece and then into the lines, not shown in the picture is a 1.1 bar radiator cap on the header tank, just in case. I mounted the header tank very high in the car so it should allow any trapped air to escape.
The blue hose is an overflow to the ground, all things being OK it shouldn't really use any coolant.
I only just finished it last night, the weather has been dreadful so I haven't tried it yet, I will find out how it goes tomorrow very early when we head off to Valla.
If you have anymore questions please feel free to ask, but I wont be able to answer until I get back form Valla
Steve
Steve that is a very similar setup to the pommy system i mentioned in the UK mag except it didnt have a pump, just relied on thermosyphon effect.
I went through 3 boxes of about 200 vw mags and you think I could find that one? 🙄
Hi Joel
I know the feeling, I can never find a particular magazine when a topic comes up.
I will test it out tomorrow, I hate wearing lots of clothes when I driving, that's why I wanted some heat.
This system could easily be used for a subi conversion, but the heater core is quiet large, looks like this car will be staying air cooled, I've just bought the start of big block Oxy boxer, 88 mm crank and case.
Steve
You'll never get yours finished if you keep getting sidetracked with other projecs 😂
