because you can't machine the combustion chamber depth any lower to increase the compression ratio.
the 043 casting only goes down 3 fins deep, so you can only machine the head for "clean up", not to remove any material.
Whereas with an 040 head,the combustion area's casting goes down 4 fins deep.....so you have more "meat" to play with, which means you can remove more to decrease cc's in the combustion chamber and therefore raise the compression.
The 044 heads are cast all the way down.
Because stroker motors usually have larger cc capacity (over 2lt) the combustion chamber doesn't need to have a lower cc capacity to raise the comp, so 043's are good for that. And well 1600's are just low comp anyway !
The other negative with 043's is that they have a smaller exhaust valve than an 040, and the valve stem is 9mm (from memory) which are bloody hard to buy when replacing!
Well with study and other things (like two new motor and gearbox builds and installs for a couple of kombis) work has been only progressing slowly.
The body is however getting quite close now.
Below are some photos of where it is at. The fuel tank area had been bastardized by a previous owner (who also had a fetish for freakin fibreglass 🙁 ) so a new front clip has been installed. Will still have to fabricate and install the back edge of the fuel tank surround.
Firewall is almost ready to be replaced as you can see from unpicking below. The only thing that will leave will be the mod to have the rear apron removable from the firewall back for engine access and easy in/out.
On the engine front, the Scat have finally delivered the custom crank that I ordered (and paid for) last October. It is a 72mm forged 4340 superlight, knife edge counterweight crank with lightened journals.
It will be partnered with some re-furbished Carillos that passed all there tests with flying colours.
One of the next jobs is finishing off suspension including fitting front end adjusters, (the right way up) rear camber adjusters, and then making a new pedal box/cluster.
dangerous wrote:Mmmmm!
Salubriuos crank!
Are you going dry sump Marcus?
Magnesium or aluminium case?
What is your planned completion date?
Hey Dave
Not going dry sump, just using a deep sump (size to be confirmed), a magnesium case (rules if read strictly would seem to indicate I need to have an original "block" (the rules say block not case obviously) not an aftermarket and/or performance one). Rods are standard length Carillos with vw journals.
Completion date .... hmmmm ; not this year I don't think. (If I talk down the finish does that mean it might happen sooner?) Early/mid next year is realistic for time and money 🥲
hi, when you say you got the car sand blasted does that mean actual sand or some other mdeia like bead or soda? if not what did you use. both my doors fenders W decklid and hood have been sanded back and over the years formed deep surface rust. what would you recommend?
cheers,
blair
oh by the way great build porn.. i mean pics. i wish my oval was coming along this quick
I wish my oval was coming along quick ... I did have it sand blasted. The guys were reasonably careful. If you wanted to be sure then some media that would heat the panels less would be advised.
I will go look for your thread now. 🙂
Well a little spare time and some funds have meant some progress on the Beetle. Not massive but positive nonetheless.
First pic is of a nice front end that has now been fitted with adjusters (right way up and in the right position 🤪)
Next pic is the shock towers trimmed and seam welded
The other pics are of the rear end going together with the type 3 bars in place and the camber adjusters
Bought some gear for the workshop (shed) which has made life easier and more things possible. A 20 ton press (just a baby), die grinder, vernier calipers, SP tools spanner set 8mm to 19mm, dawn fabricated offset vice 5", and some other bits and pieces.
Hope to have it on its wheels with front sway bar in place by Saturday evening.
Down on its wheels today.
Most things went reasonably well.
The fitting kit for the front sway bar was in need of modifications.
All seems good. Front end feels quite compliant and the sway bar does its bit when you jump on just one side.
In the midst of making up the intermediate gear box mount at the minute.
Hydraulic handbrake is a cool solution for the rear discs for me.
Currently also making brake lines.
Front bar is a 22mm (I do have a 20mm front bar also in case I need to go down in size/stiffness. I think that will be likely)
The rear that I have is a 24mm. Am hoping for a balanced feel not too much oversteer. Time will tell.
I am hopeful for middle of the year now for the car to see the track. It is nice to see it get this far now.
Cheers for your interest.