Well they were new seals; But they are the wrong ones. I had only discovered this during 2009 when I had a bad leak. The only other seals that worked were the stepped seal that goes from 8mm to 10mm. It is really strange but they were the only ones that didn't leak with the good 2nd cooler I bought.
Heres the what the leak left after running it for a while
Heres the box; all clean. This silver disc was left on the prop shaft though... I think its off the pressure plate does it re-attach to it or do I leave it there?
Had to take the extractor off the get the motor out; couldn't move it forward enough to clear the bottom studs
Yeah I could change over; but I don't see the need it still is essentially a stock engine with a hot cam and comp and it's no more than a 356 or 912 ever put out with the same cooler setup. The only thing I would change is swapping the cooler for an Aluminium one.... way down the path.
Doghouse it.... Ichanged my daily 1300 over to it and I'm sure no3 cylinder loves me for it 😉 if you have ever put your hand at the end of a doghouse cooler "exhaust" there's a lot of heat being shot out there and not over your cylinders
That ring on the input shaft is part of the thrust bearing Or pressure plate, either wau way it shouldn't be floating on it's own🙁
Show us pic of your pressure plate is it diaphram or finger type?
It's a diaphragm type like a Kennedy stage 1 but is EMPI....; speaking to Stan today he said that he's not seen one break off before so I've got to send him pics... but I questioned the EMPI plate when the motor was being built and he said he checked out the EMPI ones before using them and thought they were of as good of quality as the Kennedy ones; the only caveat on that is that I suspect he doesn't often have requests for his motors in cars that are still running most of the 6v equipment so this plate might not of been used by him in my application with the older throwout bearing design and centering ring used
I had a look at it this evening and the holder for the centering ring is still in place where it should be and the ring has broken free (cleanly may I add!!) So I need a new centering ring installed or a new pressure plate....
The cooler I checked out as well and it does have 10mm openings; so it turns out its a cooler from a 1500 beetle and a transition cooler between the 8mm 12-1300 ones and the doghouse coolers.... so some stepped/adaptor seals are required.
Heres the pressure plate; you can see on the plate where the ring should be attached; the ring lines up perfectly with that bright part on the plate/centering ring holder
It's a diaphragm type like a Kennedy stage 1 but is EMPI....; speaking to Stan today he said that he's not seen one break off before so I've got to send him pics... but I questioned the EMPI plate when the motor was being built and he said he checked out the EMPI ones before using them and thought they were of as good of quality as the Kennedy ones; the only caveat on that is that I suspect he doesn't often have requests for his motors in cars that are still running most of the 6v equipment so this plate might not of been used by him in my application with the older throwout bearing design and centering ring used
I had a look at it this evening and the holder for the centering ring is still in place where it should be and the ring has broken free (cleanly may I add!!) So I need a new centering ring installed or a new pressure plate....
The cooler I checked out as well and it does have 10mm openings; so it turns out its a cooler from a 1500 beetle and a transition cooler between the 8mm 12-1300 ones and the doghouse coolers.... so some stepped/adaptor seals are required.
95% of beetles with swingaxles have the same setup.......so there is nothing unusual with yours. As for Empi being the same quality as Kennedy, well I doubt that.
Wrong seals used by stan.....well thats a PITA for you.
The thrust area on your THROW OUT bearing looks to have a larger I.D than mine and compared to the ring you say was part of the pressure plate.....could this have caused the issue
You sure that ring wasnt part of the thrust bearing and it was being run as early throw out with no ring on the pressure plate?
just doesnt look right to me....again, could be the pictures
Daimo, went and checked the ring against the throwout bearing and it definatley doesn't fit inside of the bearing; it mates perfectly with it against the surface.
I'm sure it was part of the pressure plate; I just don't have any pics of the engine before I put it in...
Getting new seals sometime this week to fix up the leak; the ones that were in there are correct for the car I've just got the wrong oil cooler; typical that my only contribution to the motor (the cooler) has been the issue!! 😵💫
Stan's helping me out with the clutch and is sending me another centring ring for the pressure plate; easy done. Been searching the net for similar occurrences and the same thing has happened to Kennedy clutches, looking at the clutch cable yesterday the bowden tube has NO sag so I suspect it's been a contributing factor; non the less Stan was on the money about the EMPI part being ok; if you look at the EMPI catalog in the link in one of my other posts the Kennedy and EMPI parts are identical with a different marking; even been to a parts shop to look and cannot see the difference!!!
Overall I'm stoked with the motor; also happy that Stan has been incredibly helpful in this instance! Just need to get the motor back in fire it up and it'll be sweet
Got the motor buttoned up etc... but as I said the clutch was out of adjustment and had no adjustment left on the threads. So I went to replace the bowden tube and get the correct sag; easier said than done in my case.
So I pulled the old clutch cable out and re-greased a new one and started feeding it in when the guide tube inside the tunnel comes loose, I'm like no biggy I'll thread it though and fix that up after except the guide tube had actually broken halfway down the tunnel!
Upshot is I can't get the cable down and am left without an operating clutch!!
Any suggestions on getting the guide tube fixed/replaced? Can't drive it anywhere so a mobile repairer or a tow is required.
I think I may have a similar situation - clutch pedal is depressed a fair way before a click sound and then some resistance..Thanks for the links and advice - just another addition to the list of things needing to get fixed.
Nope motor still out and clutch still un-repaired, my garage currently is a lagoon due to all the rain once it's dried out I should be able to get into it
The garage has dried out enough so that I can have a poke around at the clutch tube issue; and it is a little worse than expected.
I was expecting to open up the tunnel and see that the tube had come loose in the middle or rear or front; BUT; the guide tube is actually in 2 pieces and had been joined at some stage with a hose clamp.
The middle and rear are attached to the car and aren't causing any issues but the front length of pipe is a bit worry some
ooooooo hydraulic sounds interesting... but I think what I'll do is maybe remove the pipe that is still in there and get a new one welded in
OR, find where these pipes join and get the two sections braised or welded together. Only issue with this one is that It's kind of guess work as to where the join is
