Still rekn you need a string of LEDs around that chimney, just in case it's not noticed.........
😀
Good times for 3 slipping gears. Onya Humpty!
modnrod Fahrvergnugen
978 posts · joined Mar 2011 ·
Humpty's finally got off his arse and begun a real drag car project!
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
A jet boat shop in the US.... Via eBay.1916baja wrote:where did you get that thing simon??
I'll leave the LED's to you Dave.... But thanks for the props... I'm sure the car will be quick when I get the forward motion bit under control.modnrod wrote:Still rekn you need a string of LEDs around that chimney, just in case it's not noticed.........
😀
Good times for 3 slipping gears. Onya Humpty!
Doug Sweetman Nil Bastardo Carborundum
2,128 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Welded fan - one less thing to worry about at 7000rpm. Good idea.
Bugger about the clutch though, least its not a real big deal to change. Hope your rear valance is removable.....
Bugger about the clutch though, least its not a real big deal to change. Hope your rear valance is removable.....
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Doug Sweetman wrote:Hope your rear valance is removable.....
😉
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Engine is out for the first time in 3 years....
Almost forgot how to do it!!!!
Got to replace the axle gators, pull the PP off the FW and fit the new Stage III KEP PP in there when that arrives... Will change the front seal while I'm here, and pull the cooling fan off and whack in the BERG welded/balanced fan....
Also... Reub was over this morning, and we pulled the body of the 'new' pan.... And he started on stripping the suspension off that... Will prolly have that finished tomorrow, then I'll be ready to make a start on the narrowing and lifting of the torsion housing.
Fun times ahead!
Almost forgot how to do it!!!!
Got to replace the axle gators, pull the PP off the FW and fit the new Stage III KEP PP in there when that arrives... Will change the front seal while I'm here, and pull the cooling fan off and whack in the BERG welded/balanced fan....
Also... Reub was over this morning, and we pulled the body of the 'new' pan.... And he started on stripping the suspension off that... Will prolly have that finished tomorrow, then I'll be ready to make a start on the narrowing and lifting of the torsion housing.
Fun times ahead!
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Blatant iPhone plug here...
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Started on the new pan today.... Pie cut will be done tomorrow, then it's off with the framehorns!
Doug Sweetman Nil Bastardo Carborundum
2,128 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
New pan ?
How goes the clutch woes ? Still waiting on bits ?
How goes the clutch woes ? Still waiting on bits ?
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Like Morgan, I'm building a new purpose built pan for the POS.... On account of the FOLTS 091 transaxle I bought a while back.... It's due to arrive at the end of the month.... Unlike Morgan I have very little skill, and will prolly make a right cockup of it.... But here goes anyway.
The spec is as follows:
Flat pan the battery tray sections.
Cut all the crap out of the tunnel and close up all the non-essential holes.
FOLTS spec 091 transaxle with FOLTS spool and axles, with turbo spec gears.
Pie cut the frame head.
Torsion lift 75mm using DLX torsion lift plates.
Torsion narrowing to suit the FOLTS axles (3" per side).
Solid bus mounts from DLX Ironworks.
JCL springplate retainers.
Sway-Away springplates.
A steering brake will be plumbed in to use as a burnout/staging brake.
Most likely fit a hydralic clutch setup too.
And finally.... Most likely a cage from Westi.
In the meantime.... I'm waiting on the clutch to arrive.... I have fitted the BERG cooling fan and cleaned my shed!
The spec is as follows:
Flat pan the battery tray sections.
Cut all the crap out of the tunnel and close up all the non-essential holes.
FOLTS spec 091 transaxle with FOLTS spool and axles, with turbo spec gears.
Pie cut the frame head.
Torsion lift 75mm using DLX torsion lift plates.
Torsion narrowing to suit the FOLTS axles (3" per side).
Solid bus mounts from DLX Ironworks.
JCL springplate retainers.
Sway-Away springplates.
A steering brake will be plumbed in to use as a burnout/staging brake.
Most likely fit a hydralic clutch setup too.
And finally.... Most likely a cage from Westi.
In the meantime.... I'm waiting on the clutch to arrive.... I have fitted the BERG cooling fan and cleaned my shed!
essex Officially Full-On Dubber
352 posts · joined Dec 2008 ·
Good luck Simon, sounds good.
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Cheers Barry....essex wrote:Good luck Simon, sounds good.
Back in the shed this morning.... Wanna have the pan completely clean today (stripped it yesterday), then it's on to marking the pie cut.
Fun times!
matberry Moderator Go hard or go home
8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·
Sounds like your enthusiastic Simon....power on dude.👍
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Stanley I guess the reward is in the doing of it
4,523 posts · joined Mar 2003 ·
God speed Humpty....we want pics too
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Made a start on the new pan today....
Took 6 hours to clean it up, then I rolled it into the shed....
Then I started cuttin on stuff!
Then I cut the framehead for more caster....
Pulled the shift rod, and opened up the front inspection plate... Tomorrow's jobs are to pull the rest of the stuff from inside the tunnel and weld up the pie cut.... Then is onto the torsion housing chop, chop!
Took 6 hours to clean it up, then I rolled it into the shed....
Then I started cuttin on stuff!
Then I cut the framehead for more caster....
Pulled the shift rod, and opened up the front inspection plate... Tomorrow's jobs are to pull the rest of the stuff from inside the tunnel and weld up the pie cut.... Then is onto the torsion housing chop, chop!
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Got a question for Dave B if he's watching..... I'm thinking of running a hydralic throwout bearing inside the 091 transaxle.... Actioned by a MC that will be mounted much like Henry's setup in his car.... If I remember correctly, that sort of TO is what you have in your car correct?... If you don't mind me asking, how is it mounted and hooked up?
whathaveidone Custom Title Time!
1,559 posts · joined Feb 2010 ·
Bout time you started chop chop instead of think think😂
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Ooops!
😂
😂
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
I still run cable on mine Simon.humpty wrote:Got a question for Dave B if he's watching..... I'm thinking of running a hydralic throwout bearing inside the 091 transaxle.... Actioned by a MC that will be mounted much like Henry's setup in his car.... If I remember correctly, that sort of TO is what you have in your car correct?... If you don't mind me asking, how is it mounted and hooked up?
That Saab TO bearing was for the 930 trans.
The VW bells are too shallow for that style.
I am sure something custom could be made, but I like a simple cable my self.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Cheers Dave.... The hydralic clutch management systems that are out there, are very attractive options.... Still not sure which way I'll go, but it's worth waying it all up.
Stanley I guess the reward is in the doing of it
4,523 posts · joined Mar 2003 ·
I agree with DB. Unless you're running some super clutch with a gazillion lbs of force. IMO i'd stick to a cable and spend the money and effort somwhere else.
westi what the
1,610 posts · joined Aug 2005 ·
Cable for me 2.
Why does every one cut the rear ends of like this.
Pagey's ,morgs and you.please explain. I can't see why u wouldn't move the tube only.
Or get a secondary tube to relocate and remove yours once done or buy a couple of hym joints and some coil overs and make your tags like in mike waldrons car. It cheap and easy.
And less chance of fuckin up geometry . And all the tubes for cables are still left in place an un damaged.
If you value you your own time as money people . Check out mikes set up.
I didn't mean to sound mean . I am just amazed that everyone hak's the strongest part of a Vw pan apart.
Nice work though.
Why does every one cut the rear ends of like this.
Pagey's ,morgs and you.please explain. I can't see why u wouldn't move the tube only.
Or get a secondary tube to relocate and remove yours once done or buy a couple of hym joints and some coil overs and make your tags like in mike waldrons car. It cheap and easy.
And less chance of fuckin up geometry . And all the tubes for cables are still left in place an un damaged.
If you value you your own time as money people . Check out mikes set up.
I didn't mean to sound mean . I am just amazed that everyone hak's the strongest part of a Vw pan apart.
Nice work though.
down sharon.
matberry Moderator Go hard or go home
8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·
I'm with Westi as above, cable clutch is a no brainer, esay to repair, already in the car and light and reiable.
My first tranny raise in the mid nineties I raised the torsion tube only. The plated verticly method is so wrong from an engineering stand-point I also can't believe people are doing it. The plate is adding weight and gusseting it to sheet metal in the centre of the tube is creating a highly stressed area that IMO is unsatisfactory.
Maybe I'm missing something too.
Please explain!
My first tranny raise in the mid nineties I raised the torsion tube only. The plated verticly method is so wrong from an engineering stand-point I also can't believe people are doing it. The plate is adding weight and gusseting it to sheet metal in the centre of the tube is creating a highly stressed area that IMO is unsatisfactory.
Maybe I'm missing something too.
Please explain!
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
westi what the
1,610 posts · joined Aug 2005 ·
Hahahahahahahahahahahhaahaahahahahahahhahhahahaha .
down sharon.
essex Officially Full-On Dubber
352 posts · joined Dec 2008 ·
Where do you get to see a pic of Mike's set up?
Have I missed something?
cheers
Have I missed something?
cheers
modnrod Fahrvergnugen
978 posts · joined Mar 2011 ·
HAHAHA! You tell 'em!
If all you need to do is lower the rear a couple of inches for stability, then why not just buy Hoosier "soft" 23" x 8" on a 13" rim? The sidewall is the same height as a 26.5x15, so same wrinkle for traction, the 13x7 steel rims are light as crap so less HP used to turn them at the top end..........
Actually no, don't do that. I'm enjoying the to-and-fro!
Simon, you go right aheead and cut whatever you like, don't listen to the know-it-alls! 😁
If all you need to do is lower the rear a couple of inches for stability, then why not just buy Hoosier "soft" 23" x 8" on a 13" rim? The sidewall is the same height as a 26.5x15, so same wrinkle for traction, the 13x7 steel rims are light as crap so less HP used to turn them at the top end..........
Actually no, don't do that. I'm enjoying the to-and-fro!
Simon, you go right aheead and cut whatever you like, don't listen to the know-it-alls! 😁
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
It's comes down to costs and the effective outcome.... This method has got less than 100 bux in it.... But there is much more to it than that.....
The course of modification action for me was brought on by the purchase of the 091 trans with the FOLTS axles.... Before the purchase of the transaxle, I had no intension of doing this. But needs must and all that.... For me the primary reason is to get the car down, flat and safe.... I have seen many a traditional height and suspended car lose it at the top end.... This of course is on account of many factors, not just height, but what I have noticed is that cars that sit closer to the deck, are near level and have plenty of tunable suspension in both the upward and downward strokes, tended to be far more stable in all areas of the race...
Sorry Matt, but I can't agree with you there..... Back in the day, that method was common practice I know, but the idea of fitting another torsion housing on top of the pan was not a good idea IMHO.... The need for extra bracing was higher for starters, but the framehorn position would still need to be corrected in some manner.... Either with massive trans lifts, or another set of horns, or maybe a RLR style backhalf graft.... All more complex, more weight, and more hassle.... This method just repositions what is already there.... I had considered going with a 4 bar setup at one point, but the numbers didn't add up... There is over 500 clams just in the shocks needed to make a 4 bar work.... Then you have the links, rose joints and material costs.... It's a high dollar option in comparison.... I also want to keep as much of the OG steel in the car because that's I wanted too.... Difficult to do with 32" long trailing links bolted to the rear of your seat!..... Heck.... I wanted to keep the OG interior in there at one point, but that is heading for the skip in the name of safety.
The of course we have Modnrods idea of running smaller diameter tyres to get the ride height down.... This is fine on my other sprint/autokana car where I only use three gears, but not much good on a quarter mile car.... As you know, gear ratios need to be considered.... Being a turbo car, I can pull longer gears than a similarly capacity NA car.... To take full advantage of that, the tyres diameter is an effective gear ratio multiplier unto itself.... To achieve the final drive that I require to cross the line at a reasonable rpm/mph/et is in part, dictated by the rolling diameter of the tyre.
The course of modification action for me was brought on by the purchase of the 091 trans with the FOLTS axles.... Before the purchase of the transaxle, I had no intension of doing this. But needs must and all that.... For me the primary reason is to get the car down, flat and safe.... I have seen many a traditional height and suspended car lose it at the top end.... This of course is on account of many factors, not just height, but what I have noticed is that cars that sit closer to the deck, are near level and have plenty of tunable suspension in both the upward and downward strokes, tended to be far more stable in all areas of the race...
Sorry Matt, but I can't agree with you there..... Back in the day, that method was common practice I know, but the idea of fitting another torsion housing on top of the pan was not a good idea IMHO.... The need for extra bracing was higher for starters, but the framehorn position would still need to be corrected in some manner.... Either with massive trans lifts, or another set of horns, or maybe a RLR style backhalf graft.... All more complex, more weight, and more hassle.... This method just repositions what is already there.... I had considered going with a 4 bar setup at one point, but the numbers didn't add up... There is over 500 clams just in the shocks needed to make a 4 bar work.... Then you have the links, rose joints and material costs.... It's a high dollar option in comparison.... I also want to keep as much of the OG steel in the car because that's I wanted too.... Difficult to do with 32" long trailing links bolted to the rear of your seat!..... Heck.... I wanted to keep the OG interior in there at one point, but that is heading for the skip in the name of safety.
The of course we have Modnrods idea of running smaller diameter tyres to get the ride height down.... This is fine on my other sprint/autokana car where I only use three gears, but not much good on a quarter mile car.... As you know, gear ratios need to be considered.... Being a turbo car, I can pull longer gears than a similarly capacity NA car.... To take full advantage of that, the tyres diameter is an effective gear ratio multiplier unto itself.... To achieve the final drive that I require to cross the line at a reasonable rpm/mph/et is in part, dictated by the rolling diameter of the tyre.
SuperOwen Fahrvergnugen
868 posts · joined Jan 2009 ·
Not trying to be a smartarse but plenty of low and adjustable cars have ended up on their lids. If you're serious you're still going to need good shocks and suitable torsions.humpty wrote:but what I have noticed is that cars that sit closer to the deck, are near level and have plenty of tunable suspension in both the upward and downward strokes, tended to be far more stable in all areas of the race...
Otherwise looks good 👍
modnrod Fahrvergnugen
978 posts · joined Mar 2011 ·
We're only joking around Mr Hump........
.......and enjoying the show. 👍
.......and enjoying the show. 👍
humpty Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,336 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Like I said.... There is much more to it than just ride height... The main point behind lowering the car is obvious and I should'nt have to explain this here... And I wouldn't be doing this if I wasn't serious.... I have the shocks that currently fit into my budget... They are not the best, but I can't justify blowing wads of cash on components that are currently not required.... The torsions are currently stock, as that is all that I need now.... The car runs straight and hooks up well.... But as hp and torque increases , so will the upgrades, as with any modified car.SuperOwen wrote:Not trying to be a smartarse but plenty of low and adjustable cars have ended up on their lids. If you're serious you're still going to need good shocks and suitable torsions.humpty wrote:but what I have noticed is that cars that sit closer to the deck, are near level and have plenty of tunable suspension in both the upward and downward strokes, tended to be far more stable in all areas of the race...
Otherwise looks good 👍
matberry Moderator Go hard or go home
8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·
All good Simon (altho I'm for a reloccate, not another torsion tube) I'm glad you don't agree as otherwise you wouldn't be happy with what you've done 😉
Keep up the good work. 👍
Keep up the good work. 👍
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE