There are about 15 oil gallery plugs in this block.
I SMEAR LOCTITE THREAD SEALER INTO EACH ONE AND THEN NIP THEM IN.
Damn caps lock !
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
All the bearings are pre lubricated with an assembly lube bfore hand .
Lately I have been using a Morey's product because it is so tacky, but any thick oil or paste designed for assembly
is fine...nulon makes some good ones, and there are some good moly based ones too.
On most threads I have been using Never-seize, but on critical fasteners, namely the rod bolts I use this ARP
product on the threads, and under the head of the bolt.
75 ft-lbs gives .006" stretch on thse fasteners with this lube.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
And then finally the rod bolts are tensioned in place.
This is done through the top of the block before the lid is installed.
This just about covers all the assembly process, from when I first got my camera last year.
If I have left anything out or if you have any questions please feel free to ask.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Damn thats an amazing looking bit of kit Dave..... It just looks so tough.... You can see why its the serious racers choice..... What Rod bolts are you using? The 8740's or the 2000's?..... The reason I am asking is because Im looking at the bolts on my H Beams and thinking for my app I might upgrade.... Its gonna be a boosted 2276 (250-300hp est, min street use, mostly weekend rocket), but Im not sure if the extra expense is warranted.... Its prolly good security, but I'd like to hear what you think.....
Hi Simon,
depends on the bolt diameter. If they are 3/8" diameter thread, the 8740's will be fine. For the 5/16" size I would use ARP 2000 or better.
Mine are a different brand that comes with the Pauter rods, but based on the tension required to achieve .006" stretch the are similar to the 2000 material.
These bolts are also a larger diameter again at 7/16".
In my Mule engine I have chosen the L-19 material for one step better than 2000.
Carrilo rods come with an SPS brand fastener known as CARR that is a little better again than the L-19...very nice, but 600 dollars for a set!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Thanks for sharing, it's amazing how much work goes into a built like this.
amazing, i dream of being able to do things like that!
best porting job on the heads i have ever seen in any car
76 baywindow kombi - V8 & Weddle racing diff and gearbox
Daily driven beach cruiser
some quality machining there
While the engine is out, I ordered a new clutch disc.
This one has thicker pads on the FW side to clear the rivets in relation to the FW bolts.
The old disc had done 24 passes plus 10 dyno runs and some time with its little mate
in a two disc deal that was behind my supercharged engine.
I am expecting some extra torque with this engine so I thought it would be better being fresh.
The diafragm has 2700lbs clamp.
[ Edited on 4-5-2006 by dangerous ]
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Aaaaaaahhhhh... Isn't it cute!... Cheers Dave for all you help mate.... Your a champ!
I like the colour, does painting it red make you go faster?😁
But seriously, that is really cool.
does the twin plate setup take up a lot of room?
Yes red has always been fast!
The dual disc set-up was a real tight squeeze in the bellhousing.
In the end I had a floater that was about 6mm thick and pucks on the discs
that were only just above the rivets from new.
Also had to spotface the bolt seats down to clear in the bellhousing and near
the clutch fork.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
I've got one of those on the end of my whipper snipper for cutting through tough grass....:duh
Well, last Sunday I got it all bolted in and wired up.
As per last time, I couldn't for the life of me, get the damn thing to idle.
All the accessories of the fuel system were the same, except for a cautious
richening of the mixtures, and my spare electronic WBX dizzy.
If I wasn't such a poindexter I would have used a bit of logic and just
swapped the dizzy to the one I had been using.
But instead, I stressed and tinkered, trying to theorize on some obscure tuning
requirement that all this new found power was demanding. (Yeah, right!?)
So after finally getting home from work before dark, I bunged in my usual dizzy, and, WALLA!!
All sweet!
So what was the problem?
The engine wanted more advance at idle speed.
The dizzy that was causing all the trouble was not faulty, only the advance curve
was far to slow to suit, and if the revs dropped down so would the ignition advance.
To achieve a total timing of 28 degrees, the stock curve had late timing at idle (ATDC).
And I guess that these big cams, and methanol fuel need all the help they can get.
So the propper curve has 20 degrees at 2000 and is all in by 3000.
Just out of interest, that good dizzy is a stock early WBX dizzy, with the vacuum locked and removed, and only one advance spring.
While I am sure that there are much better systems out there, that might unleash more power, this thing was trouble free, and fired my supercharged engine's 42psi boost, and 10:1 comp no worries.
This is nothing scientific, just what performs best with this combo.(talking about the advance curve in the N/A combo)
[ Edited on 12-5-2006 by dangerous ]
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Here is that dizzy,
and the completed engine.
[ Edited on 12-5-2006 by dangerous ]
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Here is the timing pointer I made.
Can you say, "heavy duty"?
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Looks great Dave....lucky you have it bolted in otherwise it may have got mixed up with my bits when I come to pick them up.
When are you going to run it? i'll come out for a look and bring my trusty vid.
Love the timing pointer...if you ever need to run a chute, nice HD attachment point.....:P
Stanley wrote:Love the timing pointer...if you ever need to run a chute, nice HD attachment point.....:P
LOL!
dangerous wrote:Here is the timing pointer I made.
Can you say, "heavy duty"?
Hate to get my neck tie stuck in that at 7 and a half
Happy Birthday to me...
I heard the Honda was not able to back up the record in "All Motor",
so the record is still mine until the Jamboree up here in September.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Well Dave
Looks like you'll have to get your chassis car on track and step up the tune to better that Honda..!!!!
...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Can't run a tube chassis in All Motor, unless it is a Honda.
Don't worry, I've got him covered though.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
He, he, heeeee!!!!😁
dangerous wrote:Can't run a tube chassis in All Motor, unless it is a Honda.
Don't worry, I've got him covered though.
That's what we like to hear..!!!!! :thumb
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Dave, you and Mike are awsome,took me alot of years to learn a small part of what you have given all of us in these posts,thanks alot
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
hey dave you got a spare set of square cut gears for that pauter motor ,did you say the centres are 6 mm apart than std vw . if so how much. thanks john
Hi john,
no spares that I can part with.
The 6mm spacing is the same as a type 4 engine, but with a type 1, bolt pitch circle.
Pauter stocks the gears for these and type 4s, and are a phone call away.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
hi dave thanks for your help i will phone pauter later .i might need to call on your help soon as i am building a new motor from scratch but with a 5 main crank.
Oohh! Would like to see that!
Not Subaru though!?
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
